I picked this gun up from a co-worker who was trying to dispose of some older things that he never really used. It’s not like I actually needed a old bolt action gun like this for any useful purpose (hunting persay), but now that I have it I have found that I wouldn’t actually mind hunting with it at all.
It’s a fine weapon and has what many agree as the smoothest and most well functioning action ever created. After having racked the bolt back and forth a few times on a gun like this you would probably agree, as I do. I can see why many a gun enthusiast took the actions from these very well made weapons and “sporterized” them by putting custom stocks, barrels, triggers, etc to turn them into more modern rigs.
All the serial numbers match (barrel, action, & stock) which means that it is most likely a factory original….did I mention from 1891? Amazing really that a gun created back then could still look and function as well as it does.
I took this baby to the range a few weeks after I got it (I had to scrounge up some 7.65 Argentine loads) and had a blast, literally. It kicks like your typical 8mm Mauser, but I was simply amazed at the accuracy of a gun this old with nothing but iron sights. My best group was right at about 2.5″ at 100 yards, using some old surplus I picked up at a local gun show. Considering this gun is 115 years old thereabouts, that is utterly amazing to me.
I think this fall I may actually use this gun for whitetail rifle season. It’ll be a tough decision between using this and the new SOCOM II I recently purchased, but when everyone else is putting up their photos on the braggin boards of their bucks with their shiny new 7mm Mags, .30-30’s, .270’s and such…..it would be oh so nice to put mine up with a gun that was firing rounds when the land I live on was still Indian Terroritory.
Leading the Next Inquisition 
Hi. I as well own a fine 1891 Argentine 7.65 Mauser bolt action rifle that I have used for over twenty years to hunt deer as well as Elk and of course wild hogs. I own many fine newer model rifles but my all around hunting rifle is my 7.65 Argentine Mauser. Yes there’s still a few of us old times that hunt with the 7.65 Arg Mauser every deer season and myself I wouldn’t care to hunt with any of my other rifles I own.
My dad got there 1891 7.65 Mausers from Montgomery wards over 45 years ago for $19.95 each. He sporterized all three. Tapped and mounted scopes on two and put a peep sight on one. You can bend the bolt down dad had a heat block made to put the bolt in before heating. He tapped the barrel to put the scopes on. cut the stand up sight off and heated it and turned it under and cut a little out of the stock so it would fit. cut eight inch.. off the barrel .we take a 30.06 shell neck it down to 7.65 cut it off and load all our own bullets they are31 cal. We have been hunting with them and have killed deer and hogs. One deer was over 180 yards. They are some of the best guns ever made.
I also have a 1891 7.65 Mauser and reload the same as you do.Been thinking of putting a scope on it but I can still bring down a deer at 300 yards with the iron sights.
ANYONE here ?? I Need some GO & NOGO & FIELD Gauges … and/or a place to buy GOOD ONES!!! …. HELP Please!
Would you believe I got a great 1891 with monte carlo stock on a bid of $20.00 for a storage shed. It was covered with red house paint (go figure) and looked like(*&%&^%(*). I cleaned it up and test fired it and it is just a great rifle. The iron adj. sites were removed so I mounted a scope. It’s the loudest damned thing I own.
how do you mount a scope on a the 7.65 argentine, I bought a simmons scope for it and cant find a way to mount it, are there any special ways of doing so, or do I just need to find a gunsmith?
Kale, B Square made a scope mount that fits in the same location as the original flip-up sight. There is no modification needed other than removing the flip-up sight. Problem is, B Square doesn’t make them anymore. The one I have, I found on ebay a few years ago and ended up paying quite a bit ($55), since they are rather rare these days. Since it locates the scope ahead of the receiver (instead of over it), you will need a scope with a long eye relief (like a pistol scope). Also, the scope will likely prevent using a stripper clip to load the ammo, but you can still load the shells one at a time by hand.
Kale, You may also want to check http://scopemounts.com/index.html?main.html for a mount. I found this link further down on this page.
S&K scope mounts in sugar grove Pa.has the mount you needand you can do it yourself i am doing one now my self there phone # is 814-489-3091 I hope this will help you . Mike Holland canton Ga.
I had my gunsmith buddy drill and tap the receiver on my 4 rifles and I installed Redfield (or Leuopold) type One Piece Bases on them!
I believe that completely. Why these Mausers go for such low prices I don’t profess to know. My problem is finding ammo for mine.
Privi Partisan makes ammo all day long.
Can either of you tell me where I could find ammo for this rifle. My husband just bought this exact gun at a yard sale none the less and he is now looking to start the hunting season with it if he can find the ammo. A few gun shops around here were really impressed with this gun however said it would be a cold day in hell before he could find the ammo. Any help would be appreciated. Internet has been no help thus far other than some history on the gun.
ShaeAnn72@aol.com
I had a hard time finding ammo for my 7.65 Mauser. I lucked up and went to midway.com and they had plenty…
Norma Ammunition Co makes rounds for it and usually keeps it in stock.
the best I have found is shorting 30-06 cases this is what i do for my daughters 1891 7.65×53 it takes a little while to do it but it can be fun after fire forming them they are perfect cycle great
I use a 125 grs .311 dia sierra spitzer with 41 grs IMR4320
powder I get a tight 2560 fps out of it and has very little recoil hope this helps you
midwayusa.com has a czech brand that I like runs about $16 a box.
look in cabelas (hornady bullets) thats where i get mine
YOU CAN MAKE THE AMMO ALSO USING THE PLENTIFUL 30-06 CARTRIDGE AND RE NECKING THE CASE AND CUT TO RIGHT CASE LENGTH AND USING .311 DIAMETER BULLETS WITCH ARE PLENTY AVAILABLE THIS IS WHAT I DO SO AMMO IS EASY TO GET
hornady “classic military ammo” loads a good 150 grain interlock bullet for this cartrige
you will find ammo for this at http://www.midwayusa.com 7.65x53mm
Cabelas
Any GOOD gun shop or GUN SHOW or Midway U.S.A. in Columbia, Mo. or Cabela’s or ON LINE in “SEARCH”…..type in 7.65 Argentine Mauser Ammuntition and that should bring up some places also! I have 5 of these now…..and 1 I had back in 1965 or so ……Great Rifles and fun to own and shoot. I’m getting ready to Custom Gun Stock all of mine thru BOYD’s Gun Stocks in California at about $60.00 each for 2nds………They make a great custom sporter!
GOOD LUCK……Herm
Not BOYD’s Gun Stocks….I meant to say: * RICHARDS MICRO FIT GUN STOCKS out of California! I’m going to order 4 soon from them. They come 99% press-in fit and with a forearm cap and grip cap already installed. Around $65.00 each plus shipping and a waiting time for inletting for make of rifle!…..I hope this helps others as well…..I like these old rifles and they are beautiful and a work of art!
I would like to know where to get them Vented or Ported though for ‘gas escape’ after the shot thru the receiver and bolt area (like the 98 Mausers do)……keeps gas and powder from possibly blowing back in your face/eyes!……All Help appreciated!!
You can find commercial hunting ammo for it on http://www.gunbroker.com. If you handload, dies are available on http://www.ebay.com. You can make cases from 30-06 brass.
I still have a few 100 rounds.
If ou know how to get it from Namibia, Southern Africa, to you….
This is a link to get the ammo you will need. Its the best price of anywhere I have seen.
http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&sortby=1&itemsperpage=20&newcategorydimensionid=9887
Norma makes it
Just search for “Norma 7.65 Arg” You should be able to get it for around $30.00 per box(20).
if you go to midway .com you can pick up a box of 20 for about 16 bucks
Norma makes the brass, also you should slug the bore as they measure between .310-.313. I have one I bought years ago for $30. in unfired cond. I removed the sights, cut and crowned the barrel to 20″, added a timney trigger, 4X scope, spoon handle and a fajen manlicher stock. It shoots in groups from a bench rest and is my favorite deer rifle!
i only pay 15.99 per box for shells just go to mid-way usa.com
Make your own ammo. 30-06 run in a 7.65 die and then trim to length. I do all the time, swell shooting.
i own a very fine 1891. all of the #’s match. it is in original condition minus some damage from someone trying to take it apart. it has original factory bluing and original finish still. i havent shot it yet and know it hasnt been shot in at least three years. can anyone give me a rough estimate of the value? if so email me at mayattack301@yahoo.com thanks
I have the same Rifle and was wondering myself what it is worth ? Did anyone ever get back to you ? Thank You
email: randythomas007@aol.com
Regarding the 1891 Argentine Mauser.
Be careful about shooting Norma ammo.
the 180Gr,flies at about 2,200 fps,
the pressure could be “too much” for
the action.
Also, the cocking happens when the action is being opened,causing(some
times)erratic discharges when the bolt is closing.
BE AWARE..!!
Actually, the 1891 Argentine Mauser cocks on closing, unless the bolt has been modified.
These are very well made rifles and if in good condition, will withstand the normal pressures of modern ammo. The original 7.65×53 cartridge has about the same performance as the 300 Savage.
The market value of these rifles varies, but I have recently seen examples in original condition, i.e., not sporterized, at 90 to 95% finish and with matching numbers going for $300 to $450. I think this is too much, but apparently the collectors don’t.
To put things in perspective, I have a sporterized 1891 that was originally purchased mail-order by my grandfather in 1965 (you could still do that back then). The rifle was in its original military configuration and brand new, unissued and unfired. He paid $17 for it, along with 4 others. Sad to say the other four are long gone.
The ones in original condition are getting hard to find because sporterizing was common back then. In addition, the Argentine crest was removed from the receiver prior to export from Argentina, although there are a few around that got out with the crest intact.
you say that these old rilfes can handle the newer ammo? im looking to buy ammo for this old mauser im trying to make into a reall nice all around rifle. my dad bought it with all matching numbers changed the stock and lost the bolt then gave it to me. id love to hear that it can handle newer loads because i dont want to hunt for ammo
Norma and Hornady make them,Hornady is cheaper
you said that your dad changed the stock, how did he do so? did he make it himself by copying or did he buy it
They can handle the new loads, no problem. The specs in 150gr. are the same as a 308.
Tom,
Where was the Argentine crest located exactly? I have an 1891 Argentine Mauser and it has three or four serial numbers (all matching) stamped in various places on the rifle. The rifle I have has a place at the rear of the barrel (on top of the receiver) that appears to have been ground off. Is this the location of where the crest was originally stamped?
James
I believe your corrrect. I have one with the crest still on it. It is a shield with capital letters AR inside.
Hi everyone….from what I understand, the “crest’s” were ground off when they were sold off (I heard to Chilian’s) so they wouldn’t be traced back to Argentina….lol…..(say’s Modelo Argentin on the barrel) the ones that still have the crest are worth more. I’ve had mine for 20 yrs…#’s match including the cleaning rod, finish and blueing are in near mint cond. Shoots fine and today (2012) more ammo is showing up. Even Sportsmans Guide has several brands.
my 1891 Arg. Mausers rear sight has been ground on (some one cut off the part that flips up leaving only the standard v) can these be replaced?
Joe, yes, the stock sight can be replaced. There is one screw to remove and then it slides out. You can probably search the internet (ebay, gunbroker.com, etc) and find a replacement.
I am beginning to believe, the more research I conduct, that the erasing of the crest for export is simply a myth. The 15,000 mausers that were put together by Loewe were meant for Argentina. However, the government of Spain had a new conflict in Morocco (a portion that was at the time territory of Spain) and asked the Argentines if they would sell them their order (10,000 rifles and 5,000 carbines). The Argentines agreed and the rifles were sold and used by the Spanish Army. Now, I ask you, if you were the Spanish Army, would you want your rifle to have the Argentinian crest on it? Shortly after that conflict, the Loewe made 1891 Mausers were sent to Cuba and Puerto Rico to help with the insurrection that begun full blown in Cuban in 1895. I believe that the rifles we all love and collect that have the crests scratched off, were the rifles taken from the Spanish Army when they were defeated and had to turn in their arms. I would not be one bit surprised if you see an add for their sale in Bannerman’s catalogue from New York. They were the outfit that sold a lot of the loot taken from the Spanish American War. Therefore, to a Spanish American War collector, these rifles are worth their weight in gold.
Tom, I believe the rifles that have the crests were those manufactured by DWM after the Loewe contract went to Spain.
Tom is rite, the 7.65 Argentine cocks upon closure of the bolt. I too have purchased this great rifle at an auction, a few years ago, but have not fired it enough. I have been pretty busy while in the military, but now that I have retired I plan on spending many a day at the shooting range and hopefully out in the field tring to get a deer after 5 year absence of hunting.. I have heard that there are still some ammo that can be found in bulk. Have not been able to find any, but still looking. It too has been sporterized with a scope, but still has the old iron sites and all serial numbers match M 7907 (barrel, bolt, and one piece stock). I’m has an imprint on the right side of the butt end of the stock, looks like oval with a crown and something else inside.
Seems as though ammo could be the only problem. I plan to reload for mine. I figure this is going to become my big game rifle for the future. If you’re able to find ammo could you send me an e-mail on how and where to acquire. I would appreciate it. Thanks.
Hi usa medway carry ammo
If anyone sees one of these for sale I would be very interested in purchasing it.
I have a 1891 Argentino for sale. You still interested? 707-498-4800.
Did you sell yours? I have one and was wondering what they are going for.
I’m glad to see other fans still exist. I have the rifle, carbine, and the engineer model. All in very good shape. The round itself is good for all North American game. I agree with Charles about the Norma ammo. It is a bit hot and I would suggest having the locking lugs on the bolt magnafluxed for cracks just to be safe. You can get ammo from http://www.ammuntionplus.com There is no reason these guns should not still be shooting another 115 years from now.
Just wanted to let you know, I took my second deer of the season with my ARG 7.65 bolt action Mauser rifle. This last deer was number twelety seven total! So The old beast is still getting my deer ever year for me. It does my heart good to read of others that still hunt with the ARG 1891 Mauser rifles as I do. As long as I’m able to hunt I will use the 1891 7.65 Mauser rifle. Thanks guys and keep up the good work on this site.
I have a ’91 Argentine Mauser that I acquired for fifty bucks when I was a teenager (oh, too many years ago, never mind when!) and it’s solely responsible for the passion I now have for all things shootable. Norma ammunition is still available, at least in 150 grain, and I’m paying about $32 a box. However, a guy at the last gunshow here had 7.65 Argentine in 174 grain from FNM (Portugal), non-corrosive primer, copper-jacketed, for half that price. Apparently in Europe the gun is used in sport shooting matches, so FNM has continued to manufacture the ammo. They also supply the Portugese Army, so as to quality you can draw your own conclusions.
I love the look of the old Mausers, and if some company decided to make modern reproductions I’d probably buy one just for everyday use so I let this one rest its old bones for awhile.
I have a matching numbers 1891 Argentine Mauser, but I need to figure out what the serial number means, such as when and where it was made. B3809 is stamped on every seperate part, as well as several other symbols on the reciever(2 hands shaking, a fancy cursive “B”, etc), It is very accurate. I shot a 5 gallon bucket at 550 yards with the iron sights! If someone could tell me something about these rifles I would appreciate it.
Regarding ammo, I get it from Wanenmacher’s gun show in Tulsa from a guy for 9.99 for 50 rounds, military surplus.
did you find anything out about it I have the same thing on my 1891 argentine mauser… is your stock also shorter than your barrel?
I bought mine in “cut-up” condition for 40 bucks. The Modelo 1891 from Loewe / Berlin are made of excellent steel, well machined, strong and smooth action. I here Rumours that while caliber is the same, bore sizes slightly differ..is it true?? I have also run into creeps that were loading ammo with 7.62 slugs and passing it off as Factory Remanufactured 7.65 Arg. I have found 30-06 cases work fine for forming 7.65 Arg. brass – head is same size. I have found shooters loading to .308 Winchester pressures with no problems at all. I wish I could get an all-weather stock for mine. I have scope mounted, modified bolt, and buehler safety installed. Wish someone would make an all-weather stock for these rifles.
I bought a Cavalry Carbine Modelo 1893 in 1968 for $22.00 including 200 rounds of surplus ammo. It’s been my primary hunting gun since then. A great shooter, even with iron sights.The shorter Carbine model is fantastic in the brush aound here.
I just received my 1891 Argentine Mausser from my grandfather who pasted away. The only stamps on the rifle are A2255. It has benn modified with a scope but still holds all original parts. It has not been fired in over 50 years. I would like to get some ammo and test fire. Does anyone know were I can purchase 7.56 mauser?
The following web site has some 7.65 ARG
http://www.ammoman.com
they have 200 rds for $129 and 500 rds at $250. They have picture of the surplus ammo. I plan on getting some soon, but since I live in Illinois, Ihave to send them a FOID card first.
Sorry forgot this, but I just go a new box of Hornady 7.65 ARG 150gr sp from a local gun shop for about $26.00.
So the ammo is out there we just have to keep looking for and asking for it.
Has any one converted the 1891 mauser to a 8×57 ammo by reaming the reciever? would the 8mm be to much for the ’91
Stick with 7mm Mauser, .257 Roberts, 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser, 300 Savage and 250 Savage, or the original 7.65. It’s the “potential” problems with too much pressure. The 1891 has no pressure relief system in case of a ruptured primer or ruptured case. It all goes back through the firing pin and into the shooters eye, or if the locking lugs give, the bolt goes that way. That can be taken care of by a competent gunsmith, who can drill the receiver and bolt to make pressure relief hole similar to the Model 93 Spanish Mauser.
Hello, can YOU tell me more on the Gas Porting and where to get this done?? Drill the bolt and receiver so the gas blows back AWAY from shooter ?? You mentioned:”like the Model 93 Spanish Mauser…..or…..I’d think more like the German 98 Mausers would be desirable! I have 5 sportered rifles I’d like to get “SAFE” for shooting and not have to worry about gas and powder blowback i my face (I had one 45 years ago and it did just that)…..I’m now ‘gun shy’…….native127@frontiernet.net …….my e-mail addy…..
Thanks, Herm
WHO can do this ‘pressure relief’ on my 5 rifles..??…drill the holes in the side of the receivers and whatever else needs done…?? …
AND, I need a SET of GO & No Go & if possible Field Gauges ??? I’d like to buy some !!!!!! Please answer back everyone that can HELP and/or steer me in the right direction!….Thanks…..Herm
I got a 91 Argentine for free from a family friend, it was sporterized years ago, its a carbine and i’m looking for a stock and handguards. if anybody knows where to find them i would really appreciate it, thanks.
Hello all, I need any info you can give me on a perfect 1891 mauser that my father gave me. It says its made in germany, but went to Argentina. Help, what do I have and what is it worth. He said it has “tiger Stripe” stock…I have no idea if ths is common. Everything matches and is original. Thanks
the wood is common,but not in good shape.if you have one in 90to95% rate and with creast on top of breech you ll be lookin at about $9oo us and without creast about 250 to450 us$
Help; What do I have ,I have picked up a 1891 with all matching # but, it is shorter Total length is 43.5. It has a turn down bolt handle and a redfield peep site. Did they make a carbine. #L8929. If anyone can help Thanks Randy
yes they did make a carbine,most likely what you have,does it have a saddlering?
I purchased a 1891 Argentine calvalry carbine for about $150.00 at a local gunstore after hunting with my ex father in laws for over 12 years. Those of course were sporterized. This one of course is not. After finding a respectable master gunsmith here in Illinois I found that with a lot of varnish cleaner and elbow grease he managed to return the warm redish walnut to it’s original charm. I had to go forward and get the barrel and mechanics (screws, sling loops and hardware reblued.) reblued. It is beyond words how great it looks. Now to find a bayonet. Anyone have a clue where I might find one. One strange particular is that the barrel doesn’t extend past the front sight, as I’ve seen others do. Is this peculiar? Well no sporterizing it for me…I’ve ended a number of trophy dear with this dependable and accurate firearm. Good luck to others using it…It’s a charm!
R. Patton
1891 Mauser lover…
I found mine from a bayonet collector/vendor in California. Had to pay a VERY pretty penny for it.
Try him , Mike Silvestri/The Steel Magnolia
luigi@volcano.net 209-296-5933
check e bay almost all 1891 argentine bayonets are engraved with Solingen (I believe the factort/town that maded them) So try that as well
Randy, I too am in Illinois! Can you give me the name and phone # and address of a GOOD gunsmith …. my old friend WAS the best, but he died last year and now I am in need of a GOOD quality gunsmith with all the necessary tools to drill some receivers for me… gas blow back ports….to keep gas and stuff out of my face!
Thanks, Herm
My first ever rifle that I purchased my self was a customized late model Argentine. I loved the rifle but at 14 and being no bigger than an ant it was way more than I could handle. I traded it for a Winchester Mod 70 in 225. I wish now that I had both. I just purchased at an auction for $175,oo a mint 1891 Argentine. It has all matching numbers and cartouches on everything. IT still has cosmoline in the barrel and on the bolt face. I dont think it has been shot since it was imported who knows when. The gentleman was 94 years old and was an eclectic collector. MOst of his guns were 99% junk. This was a great supprise to find this one in such perfect shape. I am trying to find a reputable collector who can suppply me with information on this rifle as to when it was made, reworked if it was ever, ect. I also need a correct cleaning rod and bayonet. I plan on shooting it because that is what they were made to do but its taken along time to get another one and its going to stay with me this time and have a special place in the safe. They are more acurate than these ole eyes can do. Enjoy your Argentines.
I NEED A BLUEPRINT OR SOMETHING THAT WILL LET ME TAKE APART AND CLEAN MY 7.65 GERMAN MAUSSER WITH ARGENTINE BOLTS. MINE ENDED UP IN A WET SPOT AND I’M NOT SURE HOW TO DISASSEMBLE AND CLEAN AND REASSEMBLE
See here for disassembly: http://www.surplusrifle.com/argentine1891/rifledisassembly/index.asp
I recently bought an 1891 Argentine. Matching #’s (W64XX) and in 97% or better condition. I also have a bayonet & scabbard w/ matching #’s (R99XX)and in 98% or better. I wish the gun and bayonet matched each other. I have yet to see anyone that has a matched set. (one guy has carbine and bayonet that are 5 #’s apart)
I have not fire it yet but I just got ammo today and plan to shoot this weekend. I also purchased the B Square ‘rear-sight-replacement’ scope mount as well as a scout (long eye relief) scope so I can shoot it with the aid of optics but without any modifacation to the gun.
I don’t see how you could even have a bayonet on the carbine I have one and the stock is right to the end of the muzzle mannlicher style or is mine a rare varient Numbers match also
Carbine bayonet’s were different from the standard rifle bayonets.
Do go to the web site supplied by North Dallas Dave. Especially to take the bolt apart. Inside the trigger guard is a little button. Pushing this ( careful not to scratch the blueing ) releases the magazine so you can just drop it out the bottom ( you may have to wiggle it some ). They were that close to a removable mag even then. Then remove the screw on the mag and it will come apart. But be careful because there are 2 peices connected with that screw. The trigger assy just drops out the bottom when you remove the screw.The rest of the rifle comes apart as you remove the bands and barrel end cap. As you already know the bolt comes out by activating the release on the top/side of the receiver.
Good luck and have fun.
I have just ordered an 1895 Argentine Carbine that was in the Boer war. Plus a Swedish Mauser. There are alot of web sites out there that have them.
When you shoot them watch out not for the kick but for the straight stock rolling into your cheek. After about 20 rounds it feels like someone has smacked me in the jaw a couple of times. Its not overly bad just noticable.
Enjoy your Argentines.
I found my Mauser totally by accident. A good friend of my Grandfather passed in the first few months of 2006. His widow found many old rifles in his gun cabinet. One of them was his favorite and most commonnly used, an 1891 Mauser. When she informed my Grandfather she was selling it and did he want it, my Grandfater thought of me very quickly. He couldnt affird it at the time and diddnt want to see this piece of his past dissapear. I had been wanting a good bolt-action and on my next visit I went over to see it. An hour and $100 later, the Mauser was mine. It had been sporterized a bit, but the acton and barrel still match. I have thought about looking for an original stock, but I think I am going to leave it as is. After all, that rifle gave my Grandfather and his friend decades of hunts and stories. I hope to be able to pass my own stories along to my eldest grandson, as well as this excellent shooting firearm.
Lets see if these Mausers can ring in another new century!!
NOTE: Yes the Norma ammo mentioned in previous posts is a bit hot, and the guns are nice and loud (fun to see the whole range turn to look, some with envy). Remember to wear your eyes and ears at the range and in the field.
Does anyone know the difference between 7.65mm x 53 Argentine and 7.65mm x 54 Argentine? I just got a beautiful 1891 and am looking for ammo for it.
As long as you get ammo that says 7.65 Arg ( Argentine ) you are ok. I am trying to refind a web site that explained this. If I remember there is no difference except what country that made it. Actually the caliber is 7.65×53.5 and I think thats why some list it as 7.65×54. You may want to find some one who can hand load some for you because they can power them down alittle.
I just picked up some Serbian 7.65 at $8.oo a box (20). I got this at AIM. SO cheaper ammo is out there. I am having someone hand load for me but just to be able to go try my new ones out, in the meantime I picked up this Serbian. I receieved my Carbine complete with the crest. What a sweet handy little rifle. It handles better than any other carbine I have shot. No additional kick but it is louder.
Have fun with your Argentines
have been reading some of these e-mails i have asimilar problem with my 1891 it is like 99% shape minus a type of clip is missing can,t find cause no body ever seen one like it mac,s gun shop in tyler said in his many many years never seen one.impretty sure its 765 mm bore is bright n shiny strate bolt.its for sale best offer 903 570 7305 central ss#e6966 it has all the crests still there you can still see it on the stock nearly perfect dos not look to be fired at all but who knows its only 115 years old thanks scott f.3-20-07
The 1891 has what some call a two stage trigger. Master this and accuracy improves considerably. Procedure, put a spent case in the gun and cock the bolt (manually or by the bolt) pull the trigger back until you feel a wall–this is the prepare to fire stage–then smoothly fire the gun, the gun should fire with about 4-5 lbs pressure. Now, some guns may differ but figure out how to remove the play in the trigger and you will be amazed. I have used .311 150 grain sierra’s and they fly well. Hunting ammo is expensive so buy dies & resize and trim 06 cases. Ok I know you vets know this but hey technical stuff like triggers apply to many older and potentially capable rifles. The 150 sierras smoke whitetails and make ya feel like a sniper if ya try some benchrest play. Time to store betsy? drop down the firing pin–hold the rear of the bolt and release trigger–to take tension off that old firing pin spring. Now whatcha goona say when you pass this gem on to your grand kid?
There is a company that makes replacement triggers for the Argentine. They are less than $100.oo. Go to huberconcepts.com. I have ordered one and will let you know the results.
Enjoy your argentines
What would an unfired 91 argentine mauser 100% condition be worth today?
A few weeks ago a co-worker brought his M91 Arg. out to the range and amazed us with its performance. Nailing almost any target we put out, and with open sights.
This very week I browsed a local pawnshop and found a ‘sported’ M91 Arg. on the rack. The upper stock had been removed, and the lower stock cut off, smoothed, and refinished just forward of the rear stock clamp.
Fantastic!! The bore is mirror bright, and the action is as smooth as butter. I bought it for $160. (marked down due to lack of intrest…Geezzz)
A bit of work with fine steel wool polished out some very minor and small defects.
I think that soon, some wyoming elk will fall prey to this fine piece of oldworld workmanship.
For reloaders, reformed 30-06 brass trimmed to 53mm is the starting point. Some data that I have found leans toward a 180gr JSP bullet, and a load of 47.5gr of Alliant RL-15.
The data claims a MV of 2,600 FPS.
But,I would start much lower on the powder, then work up.
Claims of using .311 cast bullets have been made also, but I can’t verify this.
Good luck folks… I expect to have a great time with this rifle..
Hey Ron – you mentioned that you just ordered a 1895 Boer War Mauser – where did you find it? I would love to get one
Yes it was represented as a Boer War veteran. BUT I am questioning that now that I have it. IT was made by Ludewig in Berlin and it does fit into the time frame and it seems the SN is correct for the time frame that these carbines were sent to S. Africa. BUT normally CSV should be stamped on the receiver. This was the Dutch colonist battle cry basically. I have not found that stamp but I have found a statement about free farmers stamped on the side of the receiver and I am waiting for some correspondance to come back to see if this could have been applied before they started applying the CSV stamp.
BUt even if it isnt, It is a fun rifle to shoot. The numbers match and the rifling is good and it is a handy little rifle.
I found this at Lowes Certified guns on the web. He had another one back in Late Feb early Mar. but I havent checked lately to see if it is still there. I am currently looking for 1909 Arg carbines. They made 2 versions, engineers and calvary. I would also like to find a Swiss Mauser carbine in 6.5×55. Those are very rare.
I have taken the 1891 Arg rifle out to a 100 yd range and with open sites I did 2 groups of 10 within 3 1/2 inches from a rested position.
Someone asked about prices? That all depends on the condition of the rifle but anywhere between $150 – $1700 for a sniper version. Go to local auctions. Thats were I found mine for well under $200.oo and in the condition it is in a dealer or collector would have wanted atlease $400.oo
Enjoy your Argentines!!
I have a 1891 Argentine Mauser that I want to sell. The gun is in excellent shape, I believe the stock is original, yet has been re-varnished. The blueing, etc is in great condition. I can send photos. Chester in Salt Lake City, 901-897-9945
CORRECTION
my number is 801-897-9945
I live in layton. how much are you selling it for?
I have a 1891 Argentino, if you are still looking for one. Also have 150+ rounds of ammo. Very, very good original condition. Nice bluing and no cracks, ect. in the wood. Smooth as butter action, clean bore. Have what looks like an original sling and the cleaning rod is still under the muzzle. Nice gun. Call if interested. 707-498-4800
Ron,
Have you installed your hubber concepts trigger yet? I am curious as to how good they are.
I have a 1891 7.65 argentine and have had for quite awhile now, I have a question on its use. I tried shooting it at 100 yards but its hitting high. The sights are iron. Is there a proper sight alignment that needs to put at. I’ve heard that these sights are “battle sights”, what do they mean by that? I know that these rifles are very accurate because I’ve picked off a coyote at about 800 meters, but I’m having this problem at 100 yards, can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?
I purchased an 1894 for $60 at a “trash and treasure” sale July in of last year, (2006). I didn’t really expect it to fire safely after i bought it, so i tried to sell it. Turns out, i found some 7.65 ammunition for it just over a month ago. The Rifle fires great. I intend from now on using as my main hunting rifle, if i can only find more rounds… also, does anyone know how to take the cleaning rod out of the end of the barrel?
I have an 1891 Argentine Mauser Cavalry Carbine. It is a compact little job measuring 37″ overall with a barrel of about 17.6″ and the wood gores clear out to the end where it has what I believe to be a provision for a bayonet. It has sling swivels and a flip up rear sight . The front sight has heavy protective ears. It looks like a really solid, well made gun. Would be a beauty for deer hunting and handy to carry on horseback. If anyone is interested, call me at (530) 223-6139 or email me at guncollector@msn.com if the phone is busy, I only have one line. It was made in Berlin. Only 30,000 of these carbines were made. I would trade it even for an Excellent Model 62A or 62 Winchester slide action .22 rifle or sell it for cash on a USPS money order.
Have had 7.65 arg since the 60s. paid $30.00 for it. it has taken quite a few deer.i load my own ammo and out of all my guns it is one of my favorites i have been looking for another one with not much luck but the one i have has a good tight group at 100 and over range and yes norma loads are a bit hot and its overpriced.
The 1891 is a well made gun but….
the 1909 is THE ONE TO HAVE.
The action is SUPERB..!!
i also have this same gun but i havent shot it yet !! but i am exited
doesnt this gun just use normal 30-06 ammo ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!!?
If anyone has a 1891 Argentine in original condition with the crest send me an email at powerbrakeservice@yahoo.com
I have just inherited a Mauser 1891. I took it down to my local gunsmith to ensure that it is still in working order (being since it hasn’t been fired since at least the early 1980’s). Its in great condition and isn’t sporterized. I would like to put a scope on it. I would like to keep it in its original status and have heard that there are mounts out there that can be put on these thins w/out drilling holes. Do any of you know where I might be able to find them?
I have a 1891, I used a file to lower the low site to shoot at 100 yds. it has the flip up site that I have never used, do you know how much distance it gets when the site is raised per notch?, I want to put a scope on it, have you found mounts for it? I will provide my direct e mail. malibu6964@yahoo.com
i took my 1891 to a gun show and a guy there had a side mount scope mount that fit right on it
When I was very young my grandfather hunted with a 7.65 Argentine 1891. He bought the gun in its original form but sporterized it himself (times were hard). The original stock was shortened, the barrel was shortened to 18.125″ and a new Williams front sight was added. He killed several whitetails with it over the years. In 1968 he purchased a used Remington 742 in 30-06. At the age of 10 I bought the 7.65 for $40. I paid for the gun that summer by cleaning his shop, picking up his tools, etc.. I killed my first few deer with this gun. After graduating high school, I bought a Remington 700 and the little Mauser hasn’t been used much since. I’ve recently been thinking about getting it out again. I noticed MidwayUSA has cheaper ammo for the 7.65. I have also resized 30-06 cases for reloading. Due to the changes that were made to the gun, I’m sure it doesn’t have much collector value but it has a lot of sentimental value to me. What I remember most about shooting it is that it kicks like a young mule.
ammo for 1891 mausers can be purchased at Ammunitionstore.com the going price is $59.95 for 500rds. that is a great price. the ammo is also non-corrosive which is also good. kelvin
AIM surplus has ammo at $10 a box of 20
I’ve got two of these rifles. All their parts have matching serial numbers and they are in great shape. I bought some ammo at a swap meet, but I’n not sure if the guns are safe to shoot… they haven’t been fired since 1977. Any ideas how I can have them “OK’d”?
i built a firing bench for mine with a few two buy fours some metal tape cheap plexiglass (available at most hardware store for cheap) and string. then just let the guys know at the range theyll usually giv4e you some space for the test fire
Does anyone know where i can get a sporterized stock to replace my existing one.
My rifle is an 1891 argentine mauser.
I have an 1891 Mauser thas i hav enot yet fired. I need to get some ammo but I see that there is a lot out there. Does it have to say 7.65 ARG, or just 7.65 Mauser?????? I have also found some that say 7.63 Mauser, and 7.65X25 What will wok????????????????????
I recently purchased a 1891 Argentine Mauser that had been sporterized. I am wanting to take it deer hunting this year. However, as I live in Kansas, it is not unusual to take shots out past 300 yards. Lots of flat here, don’t ya know. I would like to mount a scope on my gun. Does anyone know where I could find a kit to mount a scope???
Is a ” German ” Mauser the same as an ” Argentine”????? Or is The word Argentine just the ammo? Anyone that can answer this would be helpful. Thank you all and keep up this awsome site!!!!!!!!!
They were made in Germany for the Argentina military. Evedently this is common for early Argentina arms; I also have a Colt 1911 made in 1927 for the Argentine army with 4 matching serial #’s and an Argentine military crest.
I just got permission from my Dad to borrow his Mauser this year. He bought his from Montogmery Ward back in the early 60’s (for $20). There was a bubble on the crown of the barrel, so he had 4 inches of barrel removed and re-crowned. He has had the stock replaced with a monte carlo and different iron sights added. So this is definately “sported”. However I have had a blast shooting this weapon all my life.
I have a few questions:
1. Has anyone successfully mounted a telescopic sight to the 1891? With the action placement I am not sure of the best scope mounts to use.
2. At Ace Hardware I came across a can of bult 7.65 ARG ammo (170 grain) but the thing is, they are full metal jackets, (solid point rounds). I have had a blast sending them down range at our local shooting gallery, but how well will they perform in a hunting situation? I had heard that the solid point rounds can really “mess up the meat”
3. Also I am keeping the casings from these rounds so I should have over a 100 casings, where can I buy the bullets if I wanted to reload them?
2. At Ace Hardware I came across a can of bult 7.65 ARG ammo (170 grain)
should have been
2. At Ace Hardware I came across a can of BULK 7.65 ARG ammo (170 grain)
Corey Says:
October 3rd, 2007 at 2:40 pm
I only use 7.65 x 53 or 7.65 x 54 the actual bore size is 7.65 x 53.5mm so some ammo is marked 53 and some 54. I would think 7.65 x 25 woul dbe too short of a round to properly seat in the chamber.
Also I only fire 7.65 ARG ammunition. To be honest I have never seen 7.65 MAUSER ammo though.
hope that helps.
Bruce Says:
September 5th, 2007 at 8:48 pm
If you are not much of a gunsmith yourself (or just want a second opinion) your local gun store (Gander Mountain for us here) shoudl have a gunsmith on site that can help you.
Basically you want to check the barrel and chamber for corrosion and burs, things that will keep the bullet from leaving the weapon in a safe fashion.
You also want to make sure the bolt (action) properly ejects and feeds the chamber and seats the cartridge in the chamber without obstruction.
I have a mouser modelo argentino 1981 rifle. there is a simble of tow hands on the barrle it looks like tow men shakeing hands if aneybody nowes what it means it would be helpful to me. if aney body nowes where i can find a scope it wold be helpful. i dont know what toe moatil number is. it has all the same parts m 7300. here are a lot of simbles.
My father passed this gun down to me on my 16th birthday, That same year I a got a 8 pointer who’s atlers scrape gods ass, and a doe with in 3 seconds apart, damn fine shoting rifle if you ask me and $30-$40 a box might be steep but its worth a kill shot every time. by the way all my #’s match, its been in the family since new.
Have the 765 Arg mauser down the basement. Been in the Family forever. I think my dad brought it back from the war??? I just bought some Norma 180 grain ammo a few years back looks like some hot ammo. Also have Norma 150 grain that is way older. Where I’m hunting my shots will not be over 50 yards if that. Might even give them a break and go with the shotgun this year. Bernicke slugs will do the job from where I am at. Would like to go out west and try out the old boy just one or two times more. Also have the 6.5 Italian carcano (same model as they found in Dallas (no way did he get off three from up there sorry) which is also a classic. Also have the 7MM mauser, have not shot them in awahile. My 300 win mag has not missed and shot two dear with one shot a few years back. Lucky I had a land owners permit. Oh well that mag is real heavy though. My luck I will take the shotgun and then see dear 200 yards away. Last year I shot the biggest dear in the county and I could have stabbed him with a buck knife he was so close. Crazy season last year. I’m between the 348 Winchester, the shotgun Browning auto, the 765, or my browning 300 mag. I am feeling a little sentimentle though, just do not know what to hunt with.
i shoot a sporterized 7.65 arg and i love it i will have no other gun. I can shoot deer from 10 to 500 yards away and still git my deer.
Just was given an 1891 ARG. by father in law.gun looks in real good shape,has bushnell 4 power and weaver rings.The trigger has been “up graded” with a “Herter’s” piece.The barel has been sawed of to measure 18 1/2″ from breach,will the shorter barel hurt performance?
I have an 1891 Argentine that is in great shape except for a crack or split in the stock under the barrel. Is the split a safety problem or just a visual problem?
Dave
have an almost perfect with matching #:s -the clip shiny bore shaking hands :all crests are there bluing isgood model 1891 argentine $600 dollars thanks scott 903 882 7234
I just acquired a 1891 Argentine Mauser carbine, slightly sporterized at a Dallas gun show for $85.00. The barrel is in perfect shape, and the action also, the stock is what got the butchering/sporterizing. Ammo is easily available, Midway has new 7.65 Argentine ammo for $13.00 /20rnds, and the same is available at the gun shows.
I had it checked out, by a good gunsmith who does a lot of custom work with Mausers, I am very impressed with this little gun, in so far as it’s quality and condition for age, balance, and carbine portability, what many say/praise about it . I sure would like to get an unbutchered stock for it…anyone out there have anything that would do?…parts gun with all carbine furniture intact, barrel bands, front sight guard, cheap??? 972 420 0891
Dave with Dallas carbine: check out the site ptr91.com and click on “surplus items”. They have carbines less bolts and small parts for $60 listed. You could get new wood and spare parts, too!
Thanks Wendy, I’ll try them.
Anyone played with a Huber trigger on a 1891? is it up to par with a Timney?
Hey, unfortunately PTR91.com has only wrecks left that they don’t want to sell…so does anyone have… preferably the 1891 Argy carbine stock, alternatively a 1891 Argentine long rifle stock?
I recently purchased a 1891 Argentine Mauser Rifle in orginal condition and excellent shape (NOT SPORTERIZED). I got the rifle, with orginal cleaning rod, leather strap, bayonet w/ steel sheave, 100 rds of ammo, 50 empty centerfire cases, and loading dies for $130.00. It is also very different from the standard model. The seal on the breach is from the Republic of Peru, and it has a curved shaped iron sight, not the flat sight. Took it to the range the last week-end to try it out, and found love at the first pull of the trigger. I also found a couple of interesting things. First off, the sight’s lowest setting is 400 metters. To hit a 6 inch bull at 100 yds, I had to aim 6 inches below the bull. Also it has a two stage trigger. I understand this is common. After getting it sighted in, it only made me want to find a longer range. Since 100 yds is no challenge any more as it is with some of my other rifles. Need to find a good 300 yd military firing range. I’m hooked, looking at a Mauser 1905 Model Siam now. Saving a little bit of history one rifle at a time.
Hey i have a old good 7.65 Mauser and its in perfect shape, i clean it every 2-3 months but i see more potential in it, im looking for s composite stock and some scope rings, know were i can find any?
anyone need brass for a model 1891, 7.65 mauser?? hope you all keep yours, it is hard to find. Save casings to reload because special cut cases are not cheap…
e-mail me with any questions on the 1891 Mauser, or 7.65 Ammo, bullets, powders, etc. I have researched this gun quite a bit. Go to http://www.teamdoubletroubleracing.com, and contact me from there. Hopefully by doing it this way, I won’t get a bunch of those stupid junk e-mails.
Gideon
thats.
http://www.teamdoubletroubleracing.com
Gideon
I bought mine for $100 in 1990 it was mildly Sporterized, cut down front (well done), no cleaning rod. It has weaver scope mounts tapped, and flip-up iron sights, all #’s matching. Loewe Berlin manufacture.
The coolest thing about these rifles that no-one has mentioned is that you can drop the magazine by using a round in the trigger well, where the detent dot exists, by pushing in the nose of a FMJ you can pull out the mag.
I just got this weapon from my father yesterday. It’s been sitting in his closet for probably at least ten years as I had never seen it till yesterday. It has gotten a bit rusty and I plan to spend this weekend cleaning it up and restoring it to a usable state. It seems to be a very nice rifle and from what i can tell is an excellent shooter. However I do have a few questions: 1) From the photos I’ve seen there are two bands on the stock. one at the very front of the hand guard and one a bit farther back, but the rifle I have only has the rear one and the way the stock tapers it doesn’t look like there should be one there. So is it possible that there were two models made one with and one without or is it more likely to be a sporterized stock? 2) I have seen many people talking about what ammo to use and i was wondering which round would be the best to use safely with the weapon. Apparently some loads run a bit hot so I would like input as to which rounds would be less likely to damage the weapon. You can e-mail me at Ichiro_Yamada08@yahoo.com, and thanks in advance four your help.
I have a 91 I bought off the rack because it was so damned pretty. Someone made a sporter out of the original stock. It was originally a rifle (barrel is 19″ inches) but it has a turned down bolt handle. The numbers on bolt handle are the same as the rest of the gun. The way the bolt is turned down it won’t accomidate a conventional scope. I believe the bolt came this way from the factory. If someone knows anything about this type of a bolt on a rifle (as opposed to a carbine) I would apreciate any information.
I’m not a purest, so if there is nothing special about this rifle I plan to change the bolt handle and put manlicher stock on her. The reason I want to put a manlicher stock on it is to help hide the step barrel. To me, a step barrel on a regular sporter looks to morphadite. It’s not really a sporter and it’s not really issue. The bore is perfect and the bluing is prestine, so I don’t want to change it out. I have lots of guns but this one just stands out to me. If somebody is interested in bringing this rifle back to original condition I will sell it. my number is(803) 259-2692.
I have a 1891 that belonged to my grandfather, he said it was a 7×57 I have a few of those. He bought a box of shells from a sportinggoods dtore, they didn’t have the 7×57 the attendant sold him a box of 7.65 ARG. shells. Can I shoot those in it.?
Rick
I have a 1891 that belonged to my grandfather, he said it was a 7×57 I have a few of those. He bought a box of shells from a sporting goods store, they didn’t have the 7×57 the attendant sold him a box of 7.65 ARG. shells. Can I shoot those in it.?
You Can shoot those loads in the rifle …. IF” it say`s right on the left side of the bolt carage”> 7.65 x 53 mm…. Other wise NO! …. Have a Gun Smith Ck. it out , to see what size chamber it does have .
MAUSER ARGENTINO MODELO 1891 MANUFACTURA LOVERLIN ,EL CALIBRE 7,65 mm ES UN BUEN PODER DE FUEGO YA QUE PERFORA UNA PULGADA DE ACERO, COMO TANBIENLA PRESICIÓN EN LA TRAYECTORIA DE TIRO Y SU 4.800 METROS DE ALCASE . CON UN ALSA GRADUABLE A 2000 METROS . HOY EN DIA SIGUE SIENDO UN MITO ” EN LA HISTORIA DE GUERRA YA QUE LOS TIRADORES ESPECIALES (FRANCOTIRADORES)- SIGUEN CONSIDERANDO LA EFICACIA DEL ARMA . PARA ALGUNOS LA MEJOR .
Rick, I am not at all sure that you want to try to substitute 7×57 and 7.65 Argentine ammo. There is every possibility you will destroy the gun and hurt yourself and maybe others standing nearby. I am not certain which rifle you have, but I do know this – Mauser produced different rifles in both 7.65 Argentine and 7×57 Mauser for South American countries over time. I own rifles in both calibers that were South American contract rifles. I reccommend that you take your rifle to a competant gunsmith and let him tell you what to shoot in the rifle. If you are not sure, never guess. The risks are too dangerous. I am guessing you have a 7.65 Argentine, but a Gunsmith needs to confirm that if you dont know. You can really hurt yourself swapping cartridges like that.
Rick, on my 7.65 Argentine, on the receiver is stamped the following: “7.65” “Mauser Modelo Argentino 1891” “Manufactura Loewe Berlin”
If that is what is on yours, then you most likely have a 7.65 Argentine rifle. That is unless someone has screwed another barrell of another caliber or chambering on that receiver.
Is there any way that people can be convinced to stop cutting up and sporterizing these fine historic rifles? These are some of the best work that Mauser ever did. The steel in them is superb, the markings are deep and clear, the wood is excellent, and the overal designs of these 7.65 Argentines are way, way, ahead of their time. With all of the cutting up of the rifles, future generations will no longer enjoy the historical value of them as we did. When you chop a military rifle, you chop history. I own one that has been chopped, and I bought it that way. The barrell has been clipped down on mine, so a restoration of this piece is difficult. If you just have to chop one of these rifles, at least buy one that has already been chopped to do your experiments on. Intact specimens should be left in pristine condition.
I 100% agree with you my Friend “… I have one also that has a sporter stock on it , it`s been done very Nicely , I might add . Mine has a 24 in barrel.. Thank God” who ever did the work on it didn`t chop on that barrel . It was pasted on down along with all the rest of the gun`s…. in the collection About 15….diff. one`s all together he had , from my Father n law , after he passes on . The 91 Argentine rifle is in Great” shape…. prob. around 98% Blueing with All” the Grest`s and matching #`s He was a 52 Year Veteran of the Forth Worth PD…. K~Nine Unit ., and carryed the old rifle on a many a deer hunt`s here in our State” and racked up many a deer through the years with the old rifle . I have racked up 4 deer my self in the last two years with the same ole gun and plan on using it every year at the camp till I`m too old to shoot it anymore then pass it on down to my son , and see what he can do with it , when it about a 150 years old ….. I`m bettin it`ll Still be a hell of a shooter then ….. Whata ya think ?
Sporterizing the Mauser is an art form in my book. they make one of the most beautiful rifles if done right. Most are tack drivers if a little tweaking and skill is used.
There are plenty of intact originals out there in collections. Most are just sitting there because some fat cat has the bucks to screw with the market value.
I recently inherited one of these Mausers, I have one clip and a box of ammunition. I’ll probably list it on Craigslist in a few days. I’m in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.
I believe it was given to my grandfather in settlement of a grocery tab.
I have what I believe is one of these rifles. However it was manufactured in Peru and has Modelo 1932 stamped on the lefthand side of the reciever. I have found info here and other places on Modelo 1891 and 1909 but nothing on the Modelo 1932 does any one if it is a 7X65 Argintine?
For Rick- If you would like to sell the old military stock off of your M 1891 Argentine Mauser, I would be interested in buying it.
I purchased my .765 in the early 1980’s for $50.
I found it at a local pawn shop along with many other old guns of this nature.
I had the old bridge sites removed and installed with rifle sites.\
I added a scope but I had the bolt action bent downwards a bit so as to not interfere with the scope. Works great! I refinished the stock to a walnut stain and shallac and had the gun re-blued.
I had the heavy darn thing cut down at the barrel to 28 inches! What a powerful and accurate rifle I have. It’s much more balanced and weights less!
I was having a local gun smith make reload bullets for me at a very cheap price. He used two different measures of grains for the loads.
does any one know what the letter c stands for on the stock of a 1891 mauser it reads c (4numbers) and the bolt action has a D (an fours numbers) i bought this gun for a 150 bucks its in good shape i just dont know what the #’s mean an would like 2 learn more about where it came from an what its history might be
differnt nubers on the stock and bolt action does this mean it’s been changed an its not original? modified
yes. Mine has G(4 numbers) in three different places that are all the same.
althought it is an old weapon it’s shooting mechanism is prety cool ;-). Does anyone know
what ammo capalty this weapon has???
HI, im from Argentine, and i own several argentine mausers.. i am happy to see that in other countries they too value this fine rifle… btw my first Deer was shot with a cavalry version of the 1891 rifle.. hollow charge cartriges here aren’t cheap here … but military cartriges (although the army now uses a 308W like ammo) can still be acquire easily and good for practising. bye
Does anyone know where I can buy a stock (Upper and Lower) and rings for the 1891 Argintina Mauser. Please email me directly.
Vinniesorrentino@aol.com
Thanks,
Vinnie
I just purchased my first 91 from a pawn shop. I am completely impressed with the action. The rifle had been stripped and the barrel was so pitted that my cleaning rod got stuck. The bolt had been forged beautifully and buehler safety installed, d&t for 1 piece scope mount. I removed the old barrel and plan on installing either a new 7.65 custom barrel or a 7×57 barrel. And placing it in a Mannlicher type stock.
One question being that the 91 is a small ring mauser should I still follow the 46,000 CUP limits, or is it safe to jazz them up a bit.
Has anyone used the real cheap ammo on http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/7.65_Argentine.html?
Usually I buy Norma for $40+ then I saw this for $12 a box. Thanks
Kevin, PRVI rounds are of the highest quality and these are all i shoot. This brand has been readily available from many online ammo dealers as well as some local sporting stores. 7.65 x 53…YEA BABY a great round. I have a #s matching sporter Ive had a couple years and I dont need any other rifle. i bought rifle for 100 bucks already sported. Barrel had been cut from 29 to 24 inches and bolt was bent. This was probably done in the 60s. A DMW BERLIN model.
Ihave a Mauser Modelo Argentino 1891 with the crest and all markings #t5864 and i was wondering how much it is worth . Kevin
The 1891 is a remarkably accurate rifle. Mine was made by Lowe in Berlin. Factory ammo can be had by Norma and is suitable for anything in this continent except the big bears. As to reloading: usually a 30-06 shell holder will do; dies can be had from RCBS; down range characteristics are the same as the ’06. At the rifle range, with iron sights, using factory ammo I could break 1.75 inches at 100 yards for 5 shots. Recoil is mild. Fit and finish on these rifles is so good it seems a shame to change the stocks or shorten the barrels. Good iron sights are, however, a must. With a 3×9 power scope these guns really come into their own.
I have two of these. the Carbine and the Rifle. I neck size and cut the cases a bit shorter and reload these. I have had great results with either .312 or .311 bullets.
This is a great weapon and have put at least 500 rounds through these two guns in the past 20 years. It’s been about 8 years since I have pulled these guns from the safe. I’ve had a resurgence in shooting this year since my son turned 13. So we are going to pull out the Rock Chucker and start loading 7.65 again.
de
wa6ati
hey anybody the good news is Privi Partizen (serbia?) makes 7.65 argentine ammo in both174gr (orriginal loading) fmj and 180 gr soft point ammoman.com and other ammo sites it is non corrosive and reloadable hope you all have fun with yours regards Mark
does anyone know if the ’91 was used in any wars?
1891 to 1894 Manufactured by Loewe. Morocco and Cuba culminating in the 1898 Spanish American War.
I have an 1891 engineers carbine with all matching numbers with the crest and all markings. It has a pristine bore with sharp lands but with surplus ammo it patterns like a shotgun. I cured that problem by reloading my own. I use the Hornady 174 grain #3031 .311 round nose bullet over an appropriate charge of the appropriate powder ( use the Hornady loading manual). I do not excede 2500 fps since that is all the muzzle velocity I need for anything I hunt with this rifle. There is no reason to try to hot rod this firearm. I use 30-06, 270, 8×57, 7×57 cases to form my own cases for it. As for re barreling to something like 7×57, 270, 30-06 etc.. the magazine well is not long enough, nor is the bolt stroke long enough. When using cases longer than the original case to form the case for your rifle, you will be moving the case neck lower onto the donor case into an area where the case is thicker than the neck area thereby winding up with 7.65 caseswhich will most likely have case neck walls which will thicker than will be safe in your firearm. This is something which should be checked before loading and shooting said reformed cases. If the case necks are too thick they will not expand enough to properly release the bullet at the moment of ignition, thereby increasing the chamber pressure, possibly to dangerous levels. All loading and firing of reformed cases should be done very carefully and only after checking that the case neck wall thickness is within specifications. As well as case overall length. Hope this helps. Be carefull, and enjoy.
I have a 1891 Arg. Mauser Carbine, all numbers matching, all symbols in good condition including the sling. It has a smooth bore no rust and has been in a gun cabinet oiled and sitting for 20 years. What is it worth today at a gun show?
I have two of these. Here is what I have learned. Ammo and brass are available from Partizan via Graf and Sons. Form and Trim Die is available from Midway USA. Lee makes some great dies for around $25.00. As mentioned above, 30-06 makes great brass. Hornady makes ammo in the 150 gr. load and some other sizes. I shot the Hornady load at 200 yds. into a 4 inch group. If you have a rifle and want to check on the price, try Gunbroker and Gunds America to see others. The good clean and unmodified get premium prices. The others go in between $80 and $125, unless the butchering was done with some taste. If you realy want to know something go to surplusrifle.com. You will learn a lot. Enjoy.
i have a 1891 that i got from grandad when he past, it has all matching numbers A4605 the stock has been changed but i have the original with same serial number. can any one tell me about what year it was made
I also own an Argentine 1891 Mauser, as a matter of fact I qualified with that weapon back in 1961 before I left Argentina to come to live in the USA.
For those who asked the emblem that appears on the top of the barrel is the official seal of Argentina it is in the shape of an oval with a rising sun on the top which symbolizing a new nation the oval is surrounded by laurels to represent victory of emancipation from Spain, the arms shaking hands represent a united nation that are holding a staff with the cap from “lady liberty” (taken from the French Revolution) the background of the oval represents the colors of the flag white (top), the striations on the bottom half represent the light blue color that make up the two outer bands of the national flag…
As a soldier in the US Army and a Vietnam Veteran, I qualified with the M-14 (Expert) and M16s (Expert) and found the accuracy of the M-14 to be comparable to the Mauser, although the difference between “peep” and “v” sights make in my opinion the “v” sight more accurate; the “peep” sight allows for faster targeting…
I have a Mauser Argentino Modelo 1891 Cavalry Carbine I inherited from my grandfather. Everything is numbers matching, original finish, original factory condition. I’m just trying to figure out if this is the 7.65 arg (7.65×53.5) or 7×57… Anyone know for sure?
I inherited my 1891 Argentine from my father who passed away 15 years ago. The interesting thing about this weapon, is that it is the first that I ever fired. I was six years old then and my dad took me out behind the barn and taught me how to shoot it.
Over the years, it became sort of a family tradition… all my brothers also fired this same weapon when they began to show interest. (Some were older when they first fired it…) But, with my brothers and I , it was like a rite of passage.
When my Dad passed, I was very surprised to learn from my Mother that not only did he still possess the weapon… he told her that he wanted me to have it! But, he told her that I could have my choice of any of his guns, since I am the oldest boy. Well, I didn’t even have to think about it! This firearm to me is more than just another rifle. It is my history and my families history embedded in the slightly scratched stock and faded bluing.
When I close my eyes, I can still recall with vivid clarity that day long ago when I squeezed the trigger… and landed on my tail! But, I got up and shot it again, and again. Because it meant that I was a “man” in my dad’s eyes.
I haven’t fired it yet. I have taken it to a gunsmith and he verified that all the original serial numbers matched. (That was 15 years ago.) Since I have had it in storage for so long though, I think I will have it checked out by a gunsmith to make sure it is solid enough to shoot.
The markings on it are:
Mauser Modelo Argentino 1891
Manufactura Loewe Berlin
Serial # – L 8718
I have enjoyed reading these posts! I will check back again. Ya’ll be safe and have fun.
BTW – I forgot to mention that my dad won the rifle in a card game back around the time I was born. (1955)
I’ve owned one of the 1891’s for over 20 years myself and am slowly taking one of each species of North American game with it. To date a Mountain Goat at 400+ yards with the flip up open sites, a ( 1/2′ Alaskan Brown Bear with one shot, multiple Sitka Blacktails, a Rocky Mountain cow elk, and who knows what is next. Like many it is my favorite rifle. I bought ammo last year from the Gun Depot that was brand new and well priced (inexpensive). The serial number is 7030 and is stamped on each component. I look forward to passing it to my son some day.
I have an 1891 Mauser that I inherited from my Stepdad. It has a sporter wood stock, iron sights, matching serials on the receiver, stock, and what I’m assuming is the rear of the barrel (just behind the rear sight, stamped just in front of the receiver number) of F 4XXX. The bolt however, is not the straight bolt originally on the rifle, but rather a wide turn down bolt with a different serial (F 2XXX). The front site seems a bit tweaked, in that it’s not parallel with the barrel.
It also has Cal .308 stamped on the front receiver ring. Is this common or is this something a gunsmith here in the states cooked up?
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1891 ARGENTINE MAUSER-LOWE BERLIN-7.65
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I am looking for casters/ shooters who can give me information on bullet molds (Lyman, Lee, RCBS etc.) that give good performance in a 1891 Argentine. I am going to cast/ load my own ammo and this will be my first attempt at casting. I would like to start casting 120gr—160gr bullets for use on does here in Iowa. Any help in this endeavor will be appreciated. Thanks again, Paul Olig aka C Trooper
I’veowned my 1891 Arg Mauser since 1986. I’m retied Army and have experienced most weaponry from around the world. You will not find a finer weapon any where today. Some come close, but none surpass the 1891 Arg. The actual caliber is 7.65X53.5. That is why some say 7.65X53 or 7.65X54. If you look real close on each and every piece there will be a S/N. If they all match you have rare rifle. On the top of the breech there is a place that looks like someone filed something off. They in fact did just that. Before Argentina sold the weapons around the world, under their law, the KING of Argentina’s Crest had to be removed. On the top hand guard there is two small grooves. There should be copper wire in each groove holding the top hand guard in place. I have done alot of research on this weapon as far as value. Someone that knows what they have the value could be from $600 to $1700 in auction. If you find agood one for less GRAB IT!!!! I hope that I have helped someone. GOD BLESS and enjoy your ARGY. Ken
I’veowned my 1891 Arg Mauser since 1986. I’m retied Army and have experienced most weaponry from around the world. You will not find a finer weapon any where today. Some come close, but none surpass the 1891 Arg. …..Re:
Well Said Ken . Every time I shoot this weapon , I am amazed Again and Again how tight And Smooth the action STILL” remains in this weapon . It `s All Most , like it Brand New ! And the Accurcy is Deff. 2nd. to none , as you say . I don`t care what anybody say`s …. The German`s dad gum” Sure Built that one to last two or three life times I belive . My rifle`s part number`s are…. S 5615 … ALL” Compleat , and by the way , this one was run right past the Kings Nose”I guess…. Without Any file touching Any Part Of It ….. The KING of Argentina’s Crest” Is Still Displayed , Bright And Pretty On My Rifle Barrel , …. Dallasbugman…..
There was no King of Argentina…..the crest simply offended the Spaniards because it commemorates Argentina’s independence from them! The 15,000 Loewe rifles were sold to Spain for use in their army because Spain was in dealing with insurrections in their territories. That is why the crests were removed. These are the great quality mausers that our American soldiers talked about being so accurate in the field of battle. They did not have any of the ’98’s in 1898. They also had mauser model ’93 Modelo Espanol.
LAST WEEK I RECIEVED SOME NEW AMMO FOR MY MAUSER. IT IS BRAND NEW RECEINTLY PRODUCED NON-NATO STOCK PRODUCE IN SERBIA. IT IS 180gr AND DEADLY.
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WWII STOCK IS 150gr. I BELIEVE YOU CAN GO ON YOUR PC AND PUT AIM AMMO IN THE BROWSER TO GET MORE INFO. HOPE THIS HELPS SOME OF YOU OUT THERE. HAPPY HUNTING……………..”LOVE MY 1891″……..JOHN
If anyonewants more info on the ARGY go to surplusrifle.com. Look in the left hand column for the 1891 Argentine Mauser entry, click and a brand new world will open up to you. Disassmbly/Reassembly, Operation, Specifications. While at this site look in the right hand column for the Article on the rebuilding of an ARGY. It is FANTASTIC!!!! Enjoy!! Ken
The 1891 Argentine is a well made attractive old rifle. If yours has the crest of Peru on the receiver it means Mauser sold that 1891 to Peru instead of Argentina . I have one with the curved rear sight ( Lange rollercoaster sight ) . You should not shoot hot ( high pressure ) ammo in the 1891 . If you want to shoot high pressure 7.65 ammo you should buy a 1909 Argentine rifle . The 1909 is a much stronger design than the 1891 . The correct bullet diameter for the 7.65 is .311 if you want to reload for it . I agree that Surplus Rifle is a great website for any military rifle . I also believe that military rifles are pieces of history and generally should not be modified . Hornady and others sell reasonably priced ammo . Do not use military surplus ammo as it is corrosive and will rust your gun unless properly cleaned with corrosive bore cleaner or soap and hot water .
re the 1891 argentine mauser
my first centerfire rifle and first mil-surp. currently my favorite mil-surp.
my first i purchased from gell’s for $19.99. this when lee-enfields and #4s were going for $11.99 and 1891 mosin-nagants were $9.99.
my current argentine i purchased in mid-90s for $80 (from a museum). 99% perfect and all
matching, even cleaning rod. would be 100% if crest hadn’t been ground. most perfect wood on any military rifle i have ever seen. absolutely beautiful.
all the following cartridges are correct: 7.65 mauser; 7.65 argentine mauser;
7.65 belgian mauser; 7.65 x 53mm, 7.65 x 54mm. actual case length is 53.5mm.
aka “.30 mauser.”
NOTE: more commonly encountered 7.65 cartridge is same-same .32 acp. this is NOT the same as the 7.65 mauser cartridge. 7.65 cartridge is typically walther PPK.
brass easily made from shortened .30-’06. HOWEVER, in my rifle, i need to first place a few small pieces of scotch tape on shoulder prior to sizing, as my rifle has a minimum-headspace chamber. i also need to use a tapered expander. i use Lee dies.
NOTE: a minimum chamber is desirable as these rifles are known to spring their action, through use or when loaded to excessive pressures. my rifle’s action has not been sprung.
the mauser 1899 belgian is the same gun with minor changes, eg. shrouded barrel.
the 1891 argentine cocks on forward closing of bolt.
the 1891 is a two-lug action; lacks 3rd safety lug of M1898 and later mausers.
the 1891 is a “small ring” mauser and few if any gunsmiths will convert to .30-’06 or similar pressures.
the cleaning rod unscrews for access (many fine threads).
i’ve contacted B-Square re their rear sight scope mount and was informed their 1896 mauser scope mount WILL NOT FIT on the 1891 argentine.
both my 1891s were standard (29.1″ barrel). neither “kicked” excessively nor were they
inordinately loud.
NOTE: a friend owns an 1891 “engineers carbine” and that particular contrivance is brutal in the extreme. it is so very loud, nearby shooters quickly pack up and move to a more distant bench. this with mil-surp ammo being fired.
page 100 SPEER 8 reloading manual claims the following commercial ammo ballistics:
7.65 Mauser, Mauser ’91, 29.25″ barrel, Norma (ammo), 150 grain bullet, 2896 fps.
2896 fps is right up there with .30-’06; HOWEVER 29″ barrel length is almost never encountered in the field. the more commonly encountered 22″ or 24″ barrel would greatly reduce velocity, lowering performance to that of .300 savage and .303″ british.
i load for 7.65 mauser, both jacketed and cast bullets.
i use data 2200 powder exclusively.
.311″-.313″ bullet diameter is correct. Hornady likes .312″; Speer .313″
my current load for jacketed bullets:
174gr. Hornady .312″ RN over 35.1 grains Data 2200, std. primer, shortened .30-’06 brass.
good for app. 2400 fps. (29″ barrel). a very safe load in 1891.
my current load for cast bullets:
160 gr gas check (LEE, CTL312-160-2R), cast very hard w. hornady .30 gas check, moly lube in .312″ sizer, 31.0 grains Data 2200, std. primer, shortened .30-’06 brass. very pleasant. don’t know the velocity but i’m guessing 1850-1900 fps in 29″ barrel.
i have given serious consideration to having a ‘smith rechamber my 1891 to ’06-length
.30 mauser. same headspace but a longer oal chamber, so that cases made from .30-’06 would not have to be shortened. with their longer neck, i think they would be very nice for shooting paper-patched cast bullets. these wouldn’t work through the magazine, but as i’m interested only in shooting paper targets, it wouldn’t matter. and in a pinch, unaltered 7.65mm x 53mm could still be used; though accuracy would almost certainly
suffer.
elliot
.30-06 length cases are 62mm long, and will not fit (with bullets in place) in the ’91 Mauser magazine. I don’t know a reputable gunsmith who would do the rechamber you propose, because of the danger of someone putting a ‘real’ .30-06 in at excessive pressure for this action.
‘Headspace’ is the distance from the base of the cartridge to a reference point on the neck, a longer case will not have the same headspace as the 7.65X53.
Whether case neck thickness is a problem depends on the parent case dimensions. Usually Winchester cases are OK shortened to 53mm, military cases are usually too thick and need to be neck-reamed or outside-turned. Although it’s a roundabout path, I usually size to .308 neck size, ream the necks (if needed) with a Wilson .30 neck reamer, then expand back to correct size with the 7.65 dies.
re your comments:
you are incorrect.
if a standard .30-’06 case is run through a 7.65 x 53mm sizing die, the datum line on the shoulder will be the same as if a 7.65 x 53mm case had been resized; only the neck length is increased. headspace remains unchanged.
i had my M91 rechambered to my specs by a
‘smith… standard fee + the price of a custom reamer.
made for a very fine single-shot patch-bullet shooter plus can still shoot “factory” 7.65 x 53mm.
i note that one reply to this thread suggests 53.5mm cases made from (shortened) ’06 and
57mm mauser cases will have necks which are too thick and could therefore pose a problem.
again, i use shortened .30-’06 cases for parent and i have never had a problem firing them in my 1891 mauser. the newly formed neck of the finished case will not be too thick as it is being formed from the shoulder area of the parent case. no reaming or turning is req’d. i do not know if 57mm mauser parent cases req reaming or turning but my guess
would be no.
i also make 7.62 x 25mm (soviet tokarev and cz52) from 5.56mm (.223 rem) and those DO require reaming or turning. in this case, the parent case (5.56mm) is being shortened a full 20mm and so the resulting neck is formed from much thicker brass. a loaded cartridge so crafted will NOT chamber in my cz52. i myself turn necks. in this particular instance, the newly formed neck is so very thick, they require turning TWICE. once isn’t sufficient. every 7.62 x 25mm case i form from 5.56mm brass i check for chambering by running it through a magazine by hand. turning necks twice is the only way i can ensure my brass will feed
every time.
elliot
I have an 1891 that was given to me by my father. The weapon was broken for over 40 years. My idiot older brother liked to take the cleaning rod and put it down the barrel and shoot it out using the firing pin to launch. UGG! To his defense, he was only eight at the time. I recently found a new firing pin and cocking piece and brought the weapon back into firing order. The dang thing shoots as accurately as anything I ever fired in the military. The one thing that has me concerned is that when a round is chambered and the safety on and the trigger pulled, it creates a serious safety hazard. When the safety is returned to the fire position even without the trigger being pulled, the weapon fires a round or if dry firing, releases the firing pin. Not good. Is this common with the 1891?
JM Knight
Bountiful, UT
where did you find your parts? i need a bolt
i )am looking for a clip for a munser modelo argentino 1891 please help anyone thanks george
This thread has been going on quite a while. Most of the posts are about model 1891 rifles in the original chambering. I bought a pair from a pawn shop a couple years ago. One has had the barrel set back and re-chambered to .308. I’ve seen several done this way. This is probably too hot a cartridge for it, so I shoot 300 Savage in it. Works fine. The short neck on the Savage acts like the long chambers on Weatherby rifles (lets pressure go down some before the bullet hits the lands. Yes, the diameter is 3 one thousandths too small for the bore. This same trick will work with Spanish FR-7 rifles also. Nice cause the pressure is low and you can buy at your local sporting goods store. Only works for 308 though. Check out cartridge dimensions, they’re almost identical. The 308 was developed from the 300 Savage.
The other action had been tapped for a Buehler scope mount, and had the bolt re-done in the style of the FN model 98. But…the barrel was in really bad shape. I am having an Adams and Bennet 6.5×55 barrel installed. The smith installing the barrel will have to cut the shoulder back on the barrel about .1″ but otherwise it screws right into the action. The 91 front ring is longer than the other small ring Mausers. The 8mm, 7mm and 6.5×55 Mauser cartridges as well as the 300 Savage are all close to the original pressures this action was designed for. I’ve read magazines from the 1960s where PO Ackley described this action as strong enough for the 308 (and he had actions hardness tested prior to converting them) but I have my doubts. I refinished the buttstock and carved the forestock into a tapered schnabel. The wood seems to be French walnut on these stocks. Very light colored for walnut, not like American black walnut. I’ve installed a Buehler low swing safety, and a vintage 2.5x ‘Texan’ scope (7/8″ tube) using the early one piece Buehler rings (must disassemble scope to install rings).
Looking forward to shooting the 6.5X55. I’m just an amateur gunsmith, but the lines and quality of the 1891 action were just too nice to follow the advice I was given and throw the action with bad barrel away. “not worth messing with” was what I was once told.
I have been given the same Mauser youve all been talking about but mine is missing the bolt and i have been trying very hard to find one. does any body know where i might find a complete bolt
Try Numerichs (www.e-gunparts.com/ ), and if they don’t have it when you check, get in the habit of trying every week or so until they do…they usually will, but popular parts go quickly. Note that several folks are looking for bolts for these rifles. Usually infantry rifles have straight bolt handles, the cavalry carbines are nominally turned down. Otherwise they’re the same (dimensionally).
From a purely economic standpoint, you’re better off parting it out and selling on Ebay. Unless it’s in un-altered military configuration, it would cost more than the completed value. Just getting a bolt doesn’t solve your problem. The bolt has to be properly headspaced to the rifle, which is accomplished by disassembly, lathe work on the barrel, reassembly, and chamber reaming. This lathe work plus the bolt price would cost as much as an original condition rifle is worth ($350 plus). And…there is no source for bolts. You’d almost have to buy a beat up ’91 to get the bolt to fix your gun. And there are 50 people out there in the same status as you to compete with.
Sell the stock on ebay and use the proceeds to buy a surplus 98 mauser. Ammo is cheap and available for the 8mm Mausers currently on the market. If you have the means to remove the barrel, it would probably sell as well. Most people won’t deal with buying a barreled action. In reality the rifle is pre-1898 and therefore not regulated by the gun laws, but most dealers don’t treat them as such. A compromise might be to hacksaw or torch the receiver just behind the front ring and sell as a barrel on Gunbroker. The magazine might bring a few dollars too.
Good luck
Sorry to disagree with you on this, but you’re wrong. If he were to find another bolt it would fit without any work. As long as his gun and the bolt he finds are both 1891 argentine mausers. The parts are interchangeable. Think about it, these guns were originally sold to a country who, in that era, were at war with most of it’s bordering countries. If they had one of these guns damaged in battle do you think they would have bought a gun that needed retooling just to replace a part? No, they just took the undamaged parts from multiple guns to make a good one very quickly.
Also when these were imported to America they were sold by lots that included non-working guns. Dealers here just combined parts to make good guns. This is why finding these mausers with SEVERAL serial numbers on the parts is quite common, (Just look at all the posts in this thread alone to see how many people have these with multiple sn’s)and having one with all the same serial numbers increases the value considerably. They are quite a bit harder to find.
So just find another bolt for this same model gun and you will be up and running.
Just for reference I have three of these guns (each one has all sn’s the same) and I have switched the bolts around and they fire great.
The truth lies somewhere in between. In about half the cases (numbering about 14 to date), a replacement bolt for a Mauser will be within headspace range. About half will not. This sampling includes 91, 93, 94, 95, 96 and 98 Mausers, more 98’s than others. Of the remainder some will have to have the barrel set back and chamber recut, a few may have insufficient headspace, and simply recutting the chamber does it, though you’re likely to end up with a ‘double shouldered’ case on firing, as often new commercial chambering reamers are to tighter specifications than military/service chamberings.
You’d be better off with another rifle. Presuming you find a bolt, and spend the $200 it might take to have the barrel set back to adjust the headspace properly, you now have $350 invested in a rifle that may or may not be safe to use. It would be safe to use with ammo loaded to a pressure appropriate for it’s original design. You can google the pressure specs for the original cartridges and you’ll find the 7.65 Argentine cartridge is about the same pressure category as 6.5×55, 7X57, 8mm Mauser, and 300 Savage (300 Savage being almost dimensionally the same as 308 Winchester but loaded to lower pressures – it’s the parent cartridge of the 308NATO and Winchester).
Unless it was re-chambered for 308 NATO (a questionable practice according to some, but not others, due to wrong bore diameter and higher pressures) it should be in 7.65 Argentine (or Belgian, same thing). That ammo is hard to find. You won’t be getting it off the shelves of Wallymart.
Between 1888 and 1898, Mauser evolved the design quite a bit. Safety was primarily the factor that was improved. In the 1891 design, the gas handling features are not well developed. The 1898 design has holes in the bottom of the bolt in case a primer is pierced to vent gas into the magazine. It also has a third safety lug in case the main two shear off the third one prevents the bolt from flying back and ripping your face off. The 1895 and up designs have a bolt shroud that covers the races cut in the receiver down which the bolt travels. This is to prevent hot gasses from putting your eyes out in case the cartridge casing blows out.
Not making any insinuations about anyone reading the material here, but the 1898 design is much more idiot proof than the 1891 design.
Some of the 98 features can be retrofitted onto the 91. With work, the 93-95 bolt shroud can be fitted, and holes in the bolt can be added. The third lug cannot easily be added.
Ammo can be handloaded to the pressures the rifle was designed for, or modern ammo loaded to these pressures can be bought. Just not at Wallymart.
If you have one of the 1891 rifles that the barrel was set back (look for gap in stock inletting just ahead of front receiver ring) and re-chambered for 7.62X51 (AKA 308 NATO and sometimes so marked), that round is higher pressure than the original cartridge. Commercial 308 Winchester ammo is higher still. While either of these ammo types may fire successfully, the risk factor is higher. Who knows how much higher?
Well, the guy who probably knew the best was P.O. Ackley, a gunsmith who also wrote in magazines in the sixties. He actually overloaded rifles to blow up the actions to see what they would take. He had actions hardness tested to see how well made they were. He believed the 91 action was strong enough for 308.
Long story short, I probably should have just said ‘no, you can’t shoot modern ammo’.
Devil’s in the details. What do you mean by ‘modern ammo’. If the ammo meets the original specifications, it doesn’t much matter if it was made ten minutes ago, or five decades ago.
The bolts on these rifles I have heard sometimes develop cracks. Probably what happened is that the bolt cracked and was discarded assuming another could be found (not) and the rifle was not.
Based on your story, I recommend you part out the rifle on Gunbroker or Ebay and buy yourself a decent rifle from a pawnshop. Commercial manufacture is preferred in a common chambering. Go first to Wallymart and find out the ammo they have on the shelf. If Wal-Mart doesn’t stock the ammo, you are better off not buying the rifle. Leave the exotic chamberings to the guys who have a dozen rifles. In the end, you’ll have a gun that will serve you well, or be easy to swap up to something you do want later. And the money you put into the old 91 to make it work will be about what you spend on a pawn shop rifle.
Good luck
I appreciate the time you spent in writing me back. I indeed did find a bolt (stripped) and another place with small parts. after some reading i was able to assemble the bolt and take a trip down to my family gunsmith.
One week and fifty dollars later along with a souple of seven dollar boxes of surplus ammo purchased at a surplus store near hear (lotsa dust on the boxes) i went to the range with a home made test firing stand.
I used some 2x4s a couple cheap sheets of plexiglass i had from my demolition derby days and some metal plumbers tape and some old shop rags and standard oragne twine.
The rifle fired like a champ, held every shot well after a few test fires i decided to zero it with the inexpensive peep sight i mounted myself.
Im proud to say i was able to zero and shoot the rest of the day and managed to hit a steel cable at about 100 yrds. (miltary predeployment marksmanship school).
Loud as hell but never had a problem with explosions and my grand total expense was about seventy bucks
Glad you were able to find the parts and that the bolt headspaced OK. I underestimated your resourcefulness and skill level. It’s impossible to know in situations like this and to err on the side of caution is always best.
Good on you for being able to put the old rifle back together. The workmanship on these old guns is exceptional even if the design is a bit dated. I say dated, but if you look at some of the current production CZ rifles (which have a single stack magazine also, but not a nicely machined one like the 1891) the aren’t SO outdated.
I would imagine handloading cast bullits for the 1891 would be very satisfying. Cast bullits tend to lead up if not perfectly sized for the bore, and if launched too fast. Being able to precisely size for the oddball bore diameter and inherently needing to stay low pressure point toward handloading cast bullits. I intend to try that myself for my ‘oddball’ 7.65 bore rechambered to 7.62X51 (308 NATO).
And thanks for your service to the nation.
Tip on sizing bullets for ‘odd sized’ bores: get a Lee ‘push-through’ sizer and lap it out to the size you need (or have a machinist ream it as a last resort). Lee makes them in .308, .309 and .311. I champher the bottom shoulder and lap them a bit smoother inside, and use case-sizing lube (or STP). The Lee TumbleLube they send is messy, and not the best bullet lube for rifles at velocity, but OK for pistols. Bullets come out more concentric than with regular sizing ‘base-up’.
For more lead-free shooting, try casting from wheelweights and dropping the bullets from the mould into a wastebasket full or water. This should give you something like BN 16 – 18, good for up to about 2100 FPS or a little better w/a good lube and gas check or fiber wad. The discontinues Lyman 311467 casts at about 178 gr. w/wheelweights, drops out of the mould at right at .3115 and is a gas-check bullet. Works well in my Cavalry Carbine ’91.
Dear friend:
I have to say that with both 1891 and 1909 we can get 2,5″ groping shooting at 300 meters.
Using reloading and Sierra 180 grains bullets.
Regards
Ariel
As so many others, I received my 1891 Argentine from my dad. My mom bought the rifle for him after he returned from Korea, he even still had the original receipt showing a price of $19.95 with 150 rounds of ammo costing $3.50. The first time I fired the rifle, I shot at a can of coke and blew that can all over creation. This will be my first year hunting with it, but not before it takes a trip to the smithy for a new bolt handle and scope mount, found a new unmarked bolt that I’m going to have altered instead of altering the original, that way I can keep the rifle in original condition, other than drilling and tapping. I reload my own ammo for this rifle, decided $34 / box was a little rich for my blood and since I was already reloading for my other rifle, figured I may as well for this one too. Though I have modern rifles in my collection, my favorite are the old military rifles. The balance, elegance and craftsmanship of these rifles just can’t be beat.
And to echo other’s sentiment, If you come across one of these in its original condition, snag it and keep it as is so that we can preserve the history of these great works. There are several gun auction websites that have at least 1 or 2 sportered rifles every week.
Enjoy those mausers!
My first hi-power centerfire rifle I fired was my Dad’s 1891 Arg. Mauser. He took deer & rabbit with it. It was sporterized with 4 power scope over peep sites. We delivered it to my bro-in-law to “kill coyotes” in Mass. as my sister has a couple of sheep. I just got a couple of “sporters” off gun broker & load my own rounds. You can shorten .30-06 cases, then anneal (set upright in pan of water) use blow torch & trim to length. I use Herters 101- 44 grains under 180 spire point!
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I’ve been hunting with my 7.65 since 1974 when I bought it for 35.00 from a roommate. I still use the ladder sites. It’s still like it was when I bought it. (except for the blood that has stained the sling) It still amazes me how much innertia the bullet has and what it can do to game. Don’t know why I have bought other big game rifles. I only use them for varmints. GREAT RIFLE
I have a nice ’91 Argentine Mauser. My grandfather bought it at a gun shop probably about fifty or more years ago. He gave it to my Dad who gave it to me. It shoots so good that I want to use it more in little competitions at my gun range and to hunt deer. But I have a problem with the magazine. It does not feed a round into the chamber. I have been restricted to load rounds individually into the chamber one at a time. I have tried taking it apart and “stretching” the follower spring to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a magazine for this great gun?
Also, how about bullets for reloading… I have been shooting Norma stuff and other surplus ammo but I want to start reloading the 7.65×53. I cannot find any bullets advertised as for the Argentine. I should look for .311 to .312 diameter, correct? Where is a good supplier for Argentine bullets? Also, Can you recommend a good load (bullet, type/ weight, powder combination)? Thank you for your help with my gun.
See my reply above for bolts…try Numerich/Gun Parts Inc. for the magazine.
Any .311-.312 jacketed bullet (7.7 Japanses, .303 British) bullet from Speer, Hornady or Sierra will work. So will any cast bullet that drops or can be sized to .311-.312, though at lower velocities.
I usually load 150 gr. bullets in front of 46.5 gr. H-414, which is at the lower end of the Hodgdon’s data charge weight range, but it’s a very accurate load.
You can see the recommendation by going to Hodgdon’s Reloading Data website, http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp (you have to agree to their warnings and terms) then use their lookup tables to get to the data.
CCI-200 or 200BR primers, Norma cases (or Win. .30-06 resized, trimmed and champhered).
Disclaimer: This load is OK in my rifle, but every rifle is different, and you should begin with starting loads listed in a published manual and work up correct loads for your rifle, watching for pressure signs.
Peacemaker,
Checkout http://www.grafs.com for reloading supplies. Sierra and Hornady both make bullets in .3105, .311 and .312 which are suitable for loading, though there is not a great selection, they’ll be listed under the 303 British bullet section. PRVI makes good brass for loading, that’s what I use. I don’t know that anyone makes competition dies for the 7.65, but I use RCBS dies and they do a pretty good job. You’ll also need a case length guage and trimmer tool, chamfer tool and of course a loading press, powder scale and the other odds and ends for loading; a loading press kit might be your best bet. As for load data, Sierra and Hornady both publish loading manuals and if you have never loaded your own ammo, I highly recommend buying a loading manual and reading through the chapters before the load data. I would also recommend that you find someone near you that loads and work with them a couple of times before doing it on your own. The main problem that you will have right now is finding powder and primers due to the current widespread shortage. Loading your own ammo is very fun and safe, just be sure to follow manufacturers handling directions and safety procedures.
Happy Shooting!
Thanks for the info…
I am an experienced reloader but all of my reloading manuals do not have data for the 7.65×53. Just wondering a good load for the ’91 Argentine. Also, any ideas or suppliers for a magazine for the said rifle. Thanks a bunch!
Here’s some load data to get you started:
Powder Min Max
Sierra 150 gr SPT
IMR 4064 40.6 45.9
IMR 4320 40.3 47.2
IMR 4350 46.6 49.8
Sierra 174 gr MK
IMR 4064 36.8 43.2
IMR 4320 37.4 44.6
IMR 4350 43.2 48.0
Source: Sierra 5th Edition Printing 3
Hornady 150 gr SP or SST
IMR 4064 38.4 44.1
IMR 4320 36.1 43.8
IMR 4350 42.8 49.8
Hornady 174 gr FMJBT or RN
IMR 4064 36.0 43.8
IMR 4320 38.6 44.6
IMR 4350 42.0 47.7
Source: Hornady 7th Edition
Hope this helps you out. I usually shoot IMR 4350, or because of the shortage, XMR 4350 using the IMR 4350 load data starting at the min charge and work up.
Kevin,
Forgot to add this in my last post. Try Springfield Sporters, http://www.ssporters.com, for the magazine. I didn’t see it listed on their parts list, but contact them directly to see if they have one.
I just took a large Doe in an early anterless hunt with the 7.65 x 53mm. My handload was Norma Brass, Winchester Magnum Primer, 45 grains of H-380 under a .312″ diameter 150 grain Hornady Spire Point. One shot was only needed. My first game taken with this Classic Round! I still like 44 grains of Herters 101 under a 180 grain spire or round nose with regular large rifle primer. Herters 101 & IMR 4320 are substitute standards. Just using up some inventory. The Argentine will head out with me into the woods later this season.
Want to sell my 1891 Argentino. unrestored and in very, very good original condition. Has a crest above the chamber too. Looks like the an original sling and cleaning rod. Nice wood with no cracks, ect. Smooth action and clean bore. Used it till about 3 yrs ago. I got into BP revolvers. Also have 150+ rounds of ammo. email me or call 707-498-4800. Let’s deal.
I HAVE A ARGENTINE BUT WHEN I LOAD THE BULLET THE BOLT WILL NOT CLOSE IT LIKES JUST A HAIR. IT WILL EXTRACT AND THE BULLET FIT THE BOLT END PERFECT. PLEASE SOMEONE TELL ME WHATS GOING ON.
John M may be right. Typically headspace grows rather than shrinks. Short headspace (distance between cartridge shoulder and bolt face) could occur also by use of a replacement bolt that has different dimensions. Another thing to check is: many of these rifles had the barrels set back and rechambered to 308 NATO. They should be marked on the receiver somewhere, but you can always tell by looking at the stock inletting just ahead of the receiver. The inletting will show a gap ahead of all the little steps in the barrel. When it left the factory all those little inletting steps perfectly matched the steps on the barrel, if it has been set back and rechambered to 308 NATO there will be about an 1/8 or so gap between inletting and barrel step.
Chuck,
Sounds like a headspacing issue. You need to have it checked by a gunsmith. Also, if you have a micrometer, check the overall length of the cartridge, should be 2.970 inches or slightly less, and check the length of the case, should be 2.090-2.100 inches in length. Headspacing can probably be resolved by slightly reaming out the chamber, problem is, Argentine reamers aren’t common. Pacific Tool and Guage has a reamer for about $98.
Hope this helps.
JOHN ,
THANKS ALOT FOR YOUR RESPONSE I WENT TO THAT SITE FOR REAMER TO RENT THEY DID NOT HAVE THE 7.65 COULD I USE A 7.7MM.OR MAYBE A SLIGHT BIGGER PIPE REAMER. YOU WHERE RIGHT ON ABOUT THE HEADSPACE.THANK YOU SO MUCH .
CHUCK
Chuck,
PTG doesn’t always have everything listed even if it is in stock. Email them to see if they have it in stock, be sure to specify 7.65×53 Argentine because there is also a 7.65×54 Belgian and they do headspace differently. It may take a couple of days for a response, but they will get back to you. I’m also going to echo Hal, unless you have fired this rifle before and know absolutely that it is 7.65, double check the chambering. If you have fired this rifle before without problems and this has recently just started, then a trip to the smitty is definitely in order.
Good luck and keep us posted on what happens!
Hi, all. Be aware that ALL Mauser rifles have space in the stocks ahead of the barrel steps. These are to prevent binding when the barrel heats up during sustained fire, and is a design feature. If a barrel has been set back 1-2 turns and rechambered, the space will be longer. Usually the space between the barrel step and the stock ahead of the step is around 3/16-1/4″ in unaltered rifles. This is true of all military stepped barrels in original military stocks. See Kuhnhausen’s Mauser Shop Manual for more details.
Round won’t chamber: before going to too much trouble, make sure the bullet isn’t seated out too far.
Most gunsmiths will have 7.62X51/.308 headspace gauges in the shop; if the rifle doesn’t headspace to .308, the problem is probably something else, and generally a headspace check isn’t very expensive. Or you can buy a gauge for under $25. Get the ‘Go’ gauge. If the ‘Go’ gauge will go in (remove the striker before trying this), but it won’t chamber with a piece of cardstock (as in 3×5″ card or postcard) stuck to the back of the ‘go’ gauge (approximates the ‘Field’ gauge), you probably do have a .308-chambered barrel. If the bolt will close on both, you probably have some other problem.
it’s Nov. 23rd, 2009
i just pulled my argintino 1891 out of the safe that i purchased when i was 13 with my dad as my 1st hunting rifle. I paid $16.00 for it from a private party.
it has been sporterized to some degree. has a shorter stock but other than that all #’s match.
my son who just came back from Iraq took a look at it yesterday and we decided to tear it down and check it out. It had some light rust on the lever of the bolt and we used some Wizards metal renew on it as well as cleaned the whole gun. The bolt etc. looks like it’s been chromed.
The action is awsome and we plan on taking it out soon to put a few rounds thru it. I do still have some 7.65 rounds and believe this will be pretty interesting to see his reaction when he fires it.
We live in calistoga
A lot of of guys write about this subject but you wrote down some true words.
Hello, I just picked up an 1891 Argentine Mauser. I have never even fired a gun before lol. My father is taking me out to a friends place to check it out.
Anyways regarding symbols there is a sort of shield forward on the receiver with the letters ‘AG’ inside it. What is this symbol? It is shaped the same as a United States interstate sign. (you know like I-5 or I-90 or I-81 or whatever it is where you are).
Also there is a missing piece behind the clip. whatever was there seems to have been a plate fastened on by two screws. perhaps some kind of information? Anybody know what should be there?
I really enjoyed all your posts. I really look forward to putting this piece of history to practical use.
Oh its sporterized by the way. Shortened barrel, it seems to be missing some wood somewhere. Bushnell sportview scope. I put some stuff up for trade on craigslist and this is what I got back lol. It was traded for an arc welder, a grinder and a chopsaw.
Hey thanks everyone for posting here! And thanks in advance if you reply to my questions!
I also have a very nice 1891 mauser. The logo you are refering to may ber the argentine coat of arms….if you have that ….it is more unique than most guns as the receivers were “scrubbed” by the Argentine government prior to export. The part that is missing, I believe is a floorplate/magazine latch. Only guessing though without photos. Careful shooting this as it is a unique cartridge and cannot handle the high pressures of modern ammunition.
The mark “AG” is the revenue mark to the Argentine Arsenals of War “Arsenal de Guerra”.
Sorry… I repeat the reply.
The mark “AG” is the revenue mark to the argentine Arsenals of War
“Arsenal de Guerra” —> “AG”.
Your rifle come from Argentina.
I have seen several questions regarding model types, markings and stampings. There are several websites I have found to be very informative regarding this information and history. These are http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/1909argentinecarbine/index.asp http://www.militaryrifles.com/MAINIndx.htm http://www.militaryrifles.com/Argentina/ArgentHistInfo.htm and
I have seen several questions regarding model types, markings and stampings. There are several websites I have found to be very informative regarding this information and history. These are http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/1909argentinecarbine/index.asp http://www.militaryrifles.com/MAINIndx.htm http://www.militaryrifles.com/Argentina/ArgentHistInfo.htm and http://proofhouse.com/cm/codes_markings.htm Hope this is helpful and informative to ones looking for this type of information.
Don’t worry by the pressure into the chamber if the bolt is in good conditions. The original military ammo for the 1891 Mauser, it have the same pressure the modern ammo for 7,65 x 54, because the actual ammo is made under the requirements of this rifles.
Ammo: Norma or Hornady, and some boxes made in Argentina by “Fabricaciones Militares”, I don’t know if is exported.
I have the 1891, and the 1909 in artillery carbine model… Both are simply lovely.
Enjoy the rifle.
I would like to slightly modify what Javier has stated about the safety of using 7.65 ARG ammo. The 7.65mm ammo made to the 1909 was somewhat “hotter” than that made for the 1891 since they added a 3rd locking lug to the 1909 model. It’s just something, of which, to be aware. If you are not sure of the pressure of the rounds you are using it would be wise to check the bolt often to ensure you are not damaging the lugs on the bolt. I have used both army surplus and modified .30-06 loads with no issues but I was sure to specify that I intended to use the ammo in an 1891 vs. a 1909 when I ordered the modified .30-06 ammo.
I’m SO glad to have found this blog! I’ve had my 1891 since the 60’s.I bought mine at an Army Surplus store in downtown Los Angeles, California. For all these years, I thought I was the only one with this relic!! It’s great to know there are so many of you out there! I absolutely love the gun and will never part with it. I will hand it down to my Son…
I reload using the Norma brand shells. Does anyone know where I can find military surplus ammo in bulk??
Thanks…
Man it’s hard to find surplus. By the way DONT buy re-loads from any store. They tend to omit re-sizing the casings. I bought some @ Collectors Firearms and one of the casings got stuck so it broke the ejector. Its not cheap to replace! Also, if you plan on installing a scope, you will have to replace the safety. Good luck
I have the 1891 Mausser and want to mount a VX-I 3-9x40mm scope. what type of mounting system should I use?
Any mount setup for a small ring Mauser is dimensionally correct for the 1891. This includes mounts for the 1896, 1895, 1893 etc.
Just a cautionary note though, it’s a slippery slope to step out on. To get the scope down low over the receiver as it should be, you’re going to need to change the safety, and have the bolt handle cut, rewelded to low configuration etc. Just bending the bolt handle down will not give adequate clearance to use low rings. The critical dimension for scope clearance is at the bolt root, where it joins the bolt body. You occasionally see Buehler type safeties for 1891 mausers on ebay, but only maybe once or twice a year. I don’t know if low safeties for the 96 etc will work on the 91. I have mounted an older buehler low safety on my 91 sporter with low-forged bolt handle and it works well. By the time you spend $20-30 per hole to have the action drilled for a mount, buy the mount and rings, have the bolt handle re-welded, and fit a safety, you could have bought a (better, stronger) commercially produced sporter rifle.
I agree with Hal above you’ll do better to get a new modern bolt gun for less money to head off into the woods or out to the target range. You just won’t be able to get one chambered in the 7.65 x 53mm! I have a few Argentines that have been sporterized. The bolts have been forged but not to the point to clear a scope. Perhaps it is costly to gunsmith one of these into a hunting rifle, but if we start with one that has already been altered with bent bolt & shortened bbl. we have the rough beginnings of a unique rifle to use & cherish rich in history. You can’t get this in a newly manufactured gun with synthetic stock/plastic parts. I still admire blued steel & hand cut checkered stocks.
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My father recently passed me down a fine 1891 Argentine Mauser on my 28th b-day. He had planned on handing it down when I was 16, like when it was given to him at 16… but I was a little to wild to own something so nice, not to mention deadly as all get out. Ahhh,, nothing like a military family..so many wonderful “hand me downs.”
Now I finally have something to protect my property with. It’s my first rifle, thought it would be a winchester lever action of some sort, (still will get one someday), but this Mauser will do nicely.
Just picked up some ammo for it from the city gun show here in the Tampa FL area. All the bigger bullet vendors looked at me like I was from Mars when I asked for 7.65 Argentine bullets for a old Mauser rile.
Only one booth with and 50-60 year old couple selling nothing old boxed bullets and bricks. When I saw they had 4 boxes I was incredibly happy seeing as I had to drive 45 mins and pay 12 bucks just to park and get into the place and look. I defenityle over oayed all in all, but I will order the next bath by boxes of 100 online.
Anybody out there make their own 7.65s? Is it possible to get all the parts to even press that size?
I would like to have that ability when the olde stock on these websites runs out..not too mention they cost about 65 cents to 1 dollar a round to buy the old ones. I can’t find armor piercing ones at all so far. I dont personally care sine I dont shoot anything with armor…but my dad used to shoot them and really wants me to find some for him. I exposed tips, and FMJs. but no APs as of yet.
Konig,
Not sure if anyone answered your question about components to load 7.65. Both Grafs.com and Midwayusa.com have all components that you’ll need to load. The are only a couple of mfr’s for the brass, Norma and PRVI. I get the PRVI from Grafs (midwayusa doesn’t carry the PRVI) and it does nicely at about 1/5 the cost. There’s not a lot in the bullet selection, but I would suggest Sierra 174 Matchkings. Barnes, Hornady and Sierra all make bullets very acceptable for hunting as well.
Happy Shooting!
Sorry, that should have been about 1/2 the cost on the PRVI brass.
Anybody out there make their own 7.65s? Is it possible to get all the parts to even press that size?
I would like to have that ability when the olde stock on these websites runs out..not too mention they cost about 65 cents to 1 dollar a round to buy the old ones. I can’t find armor piercing ones at all so far…… RE:…..
O~ Yes” Konig , you can custom make your own ammo for your 7.65X53 mm rifle . You can buy your die`s from MidWay USA.Com and others on line . You can either reload the cases you have , or you can resize .270 or 30/06 cases with those same dies.
You can buy any brand .311 thousands diam. FM jacket bullet`s or Hunting bullet`s on line to use in your 7.65×53 mm rifle also …… I like Sierra bullet`s my self for that rifle.
If your new to reloading ?… You should , Read up on how to use the resizing die in the die kit you might buy and use to Resize the .270 or 30/06 cases , or you could destroy the sizing die . It`s not hard to do….. You just need to know…. HOW” to go about it , and use a lot of lube to do it .
I have other info. I can shair with you on reloading for your 7.65×53 mm rifle if you decide to reload your own ammo… DallasBugMan
Am I able to buy this in the shop as well or just online?
Have a 1891 Mauser 7.65×53 Argentine rifle with an odd blonde stock on it but all metal is pristine with matching numbers and the Argentine crest. I buy Prvi Partizan ammo for under 12 dollers SP BT 180grain but can’t remember if it was Midway or Graf and Son. Shoots very well. Was going to put a sporter stock for my grand daughter to hunt with but am leaning towards an original stock now.
RICHARDS MICRO FIT Rifle Stocks about $65.00 for a 2nd (nice stocks) plus shipping. Needs outside sanded and finish applied and comes with forend cap and pistol grip caps installed…with NO or little inletting to mount your action in. California Walnut and different grades also….Regular to Very Fancy….price adjusted by grade wanted…..I’m ordering 4 after 2011….1st of the year! (2012)
I just got a Mauer Modelo Argentino 1891 Deutsche Waffen-Munition sfre biken Berlin U0168 #140. Was wondering the value of this rifle.
Value could be a LOT” or a little…. Depending on condision , and if it`s been sporterized or not ? Is it complete …. does all # `s match ? …. ect, ect, ect.
I have a sniper varient, would like more info.
DAVE
June 27, 2010 8:22 am at 8:22 am I have a sniper varient, would like more info.
Dave…. Can you give me a better description of the weapon you have ?
I live in Namibia and still have a few 100 rounds of original Argentinian factory ammo.
Anybody on this site from Southern Africa can get it from me or swop for 6.5X68 brass
Hello again,
I have a ’91 Argentine and have a problem with chambering a round from the magazine. I have to load them one at a time. I took apart the magazine and took a look at it but I cannot find the problem. Could the spring or follower be bad? Is the problem more with the bolt and it not grabbing the next round properly? Has anyone experienced the same problem?
Thank you for your help.
Yes…. I would look at the follower spring and see if it my be a little weak . sounds like it isn`t holding the cases up high enough for the bolt to pick them up form chambering . That spring is replaceable on the internet , but I`m sure you could strech it out a little and make it work just fine …..Dallasbugman
We’re gonna need more info to diagnose the feeding problem.
When you pull the bolt all the way to the rear with rounds in the magazine, does the bolt face stop short, or does it travel to the rear further than the rear of the rounds. If it pulls to rear past the rear of the rounds, that’s good. If not, could be a problem with the ‘bolt stop’.
If the bolt travels to the rear properly (past rear of rounds in magazine) the rear portion of the cartridge should pop up to the point where the magazine feed lips stop it. There should be essentially no gap between magazine feed lips and top of cartridge. If there is an appreciable gap, there is a problem.
Assuming the cartridges come all the way up to the feed lips, the top of the rear of the cartridge should get pushed by the bolt face as you move the bolt forward. The motion of pushing forward with the bolt should start the cartridge arcing upward in front to aim the bullet toward the chamber. At some point maybe halfway through the bolt travel, the cartridge should pop free of the magazine (at the point where it can go no-where else but the chamber…bullet is now confined within the front receiver ring) and the forward motion centers cartridge in the chamber, bolt continues forward to the point where you rotate the handle down, extractor pops over the rim of the cartridge.
Slowly cycle your bolt with a cartridge (follow safety rules please – mind muzzle direction) observe what’s happening and do a re-post.
Most problems with magazines and feeding come from bent feed lips (the upward most portions of the magazine that bend inward to keep cartridges from springing up out of the magazine). Do yours look smooth and even, or like someone has been ‘working’ on them?
Good luck – xsexcess
Thanks xsexcess for replying to my post and providing such a first rate answer…
As it turns out your answers are very helpful. After doing some fumbling with the mag I found that there is some “freeplay” in the rear of the magazine. It does not seat fully in the magazine well and if I push it up before I attempt to chamber a round it loads it smoothly into the throat. It seems that it is that simple of a fix. It looks like the mag has a cutout in its rear section for some kind of catch in the magazine well but alas–the mag well has no such catch. Is this a common problem? Do I have a magazine off of a ’93 or later Mauser or why is there an indentation but no catch for it?
As far as the feed lips are concerned the lips seem to be unaltered. When I load a round into the mag the top of the cartridge is about 3/16 of an inch above the feed lips at the rim of the brass (and the top of the mag). Is this appropriate?
I suppose I should just accept the problem as a possible design flaw and push up on the mag when I am chambering a round. Let me know your thoughts, please–and thank you again for your feedback.
By the way this old Argentine is a very straight shooter. 150 grain Norma ammo shoots really tight groups out of the rifle! Can’t wait to take it to the Bolt Action pre 1950 match soon and win all the guys with their 8mm’s (hopefully).
I have seen 180 or so Norma ammo for sale. Is this too heavy of a load or too heavy of a bullet for the ’91 to stabilize? I have seen mixed reviews of the heavier bullet weights on this site. Your thoughts?
God Bless and thanks a bunch!
Disassembly & Reassembly the 1891 Argentine Rifle……
http://www.surplusrifle.com/argentine1891/rifledisassembly/index.asp
Dallasbugman
The feed lips are Slighty bent inward ….Front too the back , to hold the case in flat a level . If your is not slightly bent inward front too back …. Do so VERY slightly ” and Evenly . The new round , or case should beall the way to the back of the mag. or, follower before you push them into the mag. They should lay in the mag . flat and stright , and stick up about 3/16 in above the bolt face . You shouldn` have to push up on anything , in order for the bolt face to pick up the next case and chamber it …. It not a design flaw . It was built like that , and work very well , unless you have a problem with your mag. Like i said …. I would remove the Mag from the gun …. look at it carefully and make sure everything is , as stated above and it should work for you Very well . You can More than likely fix this minner problem yourself . If not” …you can find a few replacment mags. on the Internet , and replace the intire Mag.
Ammo… The 174 Gr. HPBT bullet will group better than the 180 Gr. SP bullet . It will in my gun anyway . The 150`s and 180 Gr. bullet`s are mainly for hunting game . I load and use only the Sierra 174 Gr. bullets in my cases for this rifle . I use 40.0 Gr`s of Hodgdon ….> H4895 powder behind this bullet , for a 2351 fps. load , seating the bullet @ 2.855″ inches . Which is 5 thousands off the lands in my rifle . I worked this load up and shoot`s the best out of my rifle , so I stay with it .
You can buy 7.65 x53 mm Argentine / 174 Gr. loaded ammo in boxes of 20 from Prvi Partizan made in Serbia , on the Internet . It`s very close to what I shoot out of my rifle , but diff. powder charge , and those are 174 Gr. FMJ Bullets , in there cases , but the same primers they use . There very close to what I hand load in my cases for my rifle .
Hope this help`s you out a little my Friend….
Dallasbugman
Mauser abandoned the external single stack magazine after the ’91 and introduced the staggered internal magazine with the ’93. So no, you don’t have the wrong magazine.
There is a spring loaded toggle that pivots within a milled slot just forward of the trigger (milled out of the forward trigger guard). The toggle should protrude from the flat milled face of the trigger guard about a tenth of an inch at the top. When it’s protruding at the top, it’s recessed at the bottom. When you push against the spring pressure at the top, the bottom toggles out and becomes flush with the flat face of the triggerguard.
Perhaps this piece is either missing on your rifle, or it is stuck. If it’s missing, I’d try GunPartsCorp (Numrich Arms) for a replacement. You might need a spring, pivot pin and the toggle part (they might call this a magazine ‘catch’.
If you’re lucky, it’s just gummed up and you can use some coleman lantern fuel, acetone, or other solvent and free it up.
That should fix you up.
Dallasbugman well described reloading for the standard Argentine cartridge (It’s 3.12 diameter bore and is not a true 30 caliber (3.08) rifle. Some of these had the barrel set back and were rechambered for 308 NATO (I have one of these). Reloading for the 308 NATO versions is similar to but not exactly what Dallasbugman described (start lower and work your way up to a pressure where accuracy is good and your shoulder still gets well-bruised by that steel buttplate :). Use 308 dies, but .312 bullets.
Good Luck XSEXCESS
Re: …. Dallasbugman well described reloading for the standard Argentine cartridge (It’s 3.12 diameter bore and is not a true 30 caliber (3.08) rifle. Some of these had the barrel set back and were rechambered for 308 NATO (I have one of these). Reloading for the 308 NATO versions is similar to but not exactly what Dallasbugman described (start lower and work your way up to a pressure where accuracy is good and your shoulder still gets well-bruised by that steel buttplate :). Use 308 dies, but .312 bullets.
Re:….Number 1 , …..MY 7.65×53 mm Argentine Rifle IS” A .311 Diam Rifle, don`t know about yours .
Re: Number 2 , …..I don`t belive I said it was a True” .308 Cal. rifle , did I ?
If you have a standard chambered .308 rifle …. Your have a bore diameter of .308/7.82mm , or .308 diam. , not .312 diameter . If you have a rifle like that , then more than likely , it prob. has to use a .312 diam. bullet to get it to stableize the bullet , instead of using a .308 diam. bullet , because when it was first built , more than likely it was bored to .312 diam , before the rechambering to .308 . That`s my guess , or the throte has eroded out some what .
If one is reloading for a .308 Rechambered Mauser rifle ….. He should stay Well below the standard presure of modern day .308 rifle , like a Rem. 700 .308 rifle . Modern day .308 rifle `s using factory ammo , have standard SAAMI-chamber presures of over 60,000 psi…… Way to much for the old rifle that was desiged to have chamber presures of 46, 000 psi Max.
A bunch of these old rifles were rechambered from 7mm up to .308 chamberings , but the chamber and barrel steel , is still the same strenght steel as when it was first built , and the Chamber , Nor The Barrel Steel Is Strong Enough To With Stand The Higher Presures of Factory 308 Cartages or Rounds . All I ask , is just let me know if that`s what your doing @ the range , so I can be Sure to move Way down to the other end of the range away from you . Never reload your single ring Mauser rifles with chamber presures of more than around 45 to 46,000 psi . They Can And WILL BLOW UP IN Your Face !… I`ve seen it TWICE” happen to other people….. One Was An Old 7mm Rechambered To a .308 and the guy was using Winchester Factory 308 Ammo….. It wasn`t pretty ether time .
Dallasbugman…. Custom reloading all my weapons since 1964…. Have a Great Day .
Thanks you guys for your help. I will check out the feed lips more carefully and also will try to free up the mag catch in the mag well. Otherwise its to Grafs and the reloading bench for some 174 gr Matchkings behind some 4064 or 4895 for me (that’s what I have on hand), and then to the Bolt Action Military issue match to school the good ‘ol boys I hope.
Again, thank you very much for your help.
Has anyone ever found an all-weather or composite stock for the 7.65 Argentine action?
Im not sure which model you have but trhttp://www.atigunstocks.com/s-10-mauser.aspxy They have composite stocks for 98s. The contact number or website may lead you for a particular model. Also anyone looking for wood stock there is one on ebay and bid so far is 20.00. For scope mounts for scout scopes with long eye relief up to x7 go to s & k scope mounts or Galati international online. Hope this helps with some of the questions I have seen
wai wai ,,,,,,,,khabij ka aulaad ……..kya peshgi hai
Every once in a while someone asks about scope mounts for the 1891 Mauser on this string. I stumbled across a new item from S&K scope mounts http://scopemounts.com/index.html?main.html that allows mounting of a ‘scout’ (IER or intermediate eye relief) scope on the 1891. I have one of the S&K mounts on a Polish M44 and am pleased with it. It does not require modification of the rifle, just temporary removal of the rear sight leaf so the mount can be installed. I’ve had good luck using pistol scopes in the ‘scout’ position, especially low power scopes. Nice thing about the low power scopes in scout configuration is you can keep both eyes open..the benefit of this is better awareness of everything else going on around you. If you go over about 2x the both eyes open technique doesn’t work as well as your brain is fighting two different magnifications (left eye sees 1x while right eye sees 4x for example). The price is not cheap at around $70 but it should cost less than having a gunsmith drill and tap for a traditional mount, plus it doesn’t reduce the value of a pristine rifle by permanent modification. If your rifle has already been modified, a traditional scope mount for a small ring mauser (1896 for example) should work as the front ring diameter and rear configuration are same as other small ring Mausers. You of course step off down the slippery slope of forging to a lower bolt handle, changing safety lever etc though. That’s the beauty of the scout scope configuration. No modifications to rifle are necessary. Cheers, XSEXCESS
Thank`s for the tip for the scope mount set up for the Argentine Mauser . been waitin for someone to come up with mount system for the rifle for a WHILE” now . One that is , that I didn`t have to Drill or tear up the rifle to get one mounted . It my favorit deer rifle and I can shoot it pretty well @ a 100 yards with the open site`s on it but , Would Love to put a 4-12 power scope on the old rifle for making some long shot`s I`ve had to pass up More than oncc in the past. Thank`s again Mr. XSEXCESS for that tip .
I would like information for cutting down 30.06 casings to 7.65×53 for the Argentine Mauser. Specifically renecking the casing after it had been cut to the correct length. I have a Lee Loader reloading kit for the 7.65×53 Argentine Mauser and am wondering if this will reneck the casing correctly. I do not believe it will as I feel that it would crimp the end like a blank round is crimped unless the priming tool is inserted. One person mentioned fireforming the casing and another just said run it in the die and then cut to length. Any suggestions which are the preferred method. I will try running thru the die in the mean time.
David,
Try grafs.com They have PRVI 7.65×53 brass for $45.00 for 100 pieces. I use them in my mauser and they are good brass. Haven’t had any bad ones from what I have purchased, and those folks are great to work with.
On a related note, does anyone have a Buehler low safety lever for the 1891 Arg they would sell? I really would like to have one on my sporter, but they are OOP, and impossible to find. I would also be interested in hearing evryone’s response to the .30-06 re-size question previous. Thanks!
I’ve actually got the safety and new-unused stipped bolt. If anyone is interested, just email me and I’ll give you pricing. My email is john.myers@jnknet.net .
Can anyone tell me what is the best scope mount to use for this rifle.. i looking to drill and tap not to use rear sight.. thank you
I just purchased an Argentine Mauser 1891 from my grandma. She got it from my Grandpa that has recently passed away. She told me Grandpa had the gun for over 40 years. It is original condition with the cleaner attachment still with it. I do not know a lot about this rifle except what I have been reading on the postings. I was told this gun was valued at 400 to 600 dollars. Is this true or is that a collectors price?
Jim, $400 – 600 sounds like a collector rifle. For that price the rifle should still have the Argentine Crest on the reciever just in front of the breach and on top. The Crest was supposed to have been ground off on imported rifles, but some made through intact. If this is the case, then the rifle has some collector value, if not , then the rifle should value at under $300. I bought my Argie at a farm sale 10yrs ago for $120 w/ no crest. I enjoy shooting and hunting with it. I plan to have a Timney trigger installed on it, so target shooting will be easier. Other than that I will shoot my Argie as is. Ammo can be had through several sources: Cabelas, Midway, Old Western Scrounger, Privi Partisan etc. I’ve purchased ammo for $12 a box Privi at gun shows, and $20 per box at Cabelas. Enjoy the rifle… C Trooper
go to Ebay for a bayonet. I have purchased two, the second a navy one with brass hilt. Beautiful knife for about $90. I paid $20 for the rifle in 1963 from Montgomery Ward. It’s never been fired.
https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=38
I stumbled across a source for 1891 Mauser parts (Liberty Tree Collectibles) and thought I’d share. These guys have both rifle and carbine bolts, some stocks, etc. I bought a carbine bolt from them to use as a spare. Anyone who has a semi-butchered 1891 and wants to transform it from a $175 bubba’d huntin’ gun to a $350 military configuration piece might be able to find the parts you need. Also, I recently installed a S&K scout scope mount on one of the modified rifles I own and am pleased with the results. I recommend looking for some old ‘extra low’ rings from Weaver. Not sure they’re made anymore, but there is nothing out there that will get the scope lower to the bore than Weaver extra low height.
Hello…..I have 2 1891 Rifles….I need a magazine FOLLOWER for one of them!……..I can’t find one any where………PLEASE HELP!!!
native127@frontiernet.net
Thank You………Herm
http://www.sarcoinc
I also have an 1891 Argentine mauser. Original cleaning rod. Original shoulder strap.lots of markings
Including the mauser company mark. Any idea of what its worth might be?
$75.00 and up…..I bought some for $15.00 and seen some in the $500 range too. It all depends on ‘the buyer’ and what they will pay! Depends also on the rifle and condition!
of course like your web site however you need to take a look at the spelling on several of your posts. A number of them are rife with spelling problems and I find it very troublesome to inform the truth on the other hand I’ll surely come again again.
We all know what were saying……spelling do not mattter!
jmho
I need a Complete Bolt for a 1891 Mauser ‘rife’…..any out there for sale reasonable??….Please let me know!…..Thank’s, Herm
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I still have my 7.65 Argentine that I bought over 50 years ago for(blush) $20 tax included. I had a sporterized stock with 1 inch pad added in 1981. It still kicks like a mule, but is right on at 550 meters! Some of my re-loads are a bit “hot”, but so was some of the surplus.
I am looking for a parade / cerimonial Mauser 1891 to go with my ROTC bayonett. any body looking to sell? Thanks
I’ve been using a “sporterized” 1891 modelo 7.65 mauser for whitetail hunting since i started hunting back in the 60s. Great hunting rifle.. I have always used Norma 174 grain, but picked up a box of Prvi Partizan 180 grain at a gun show today. Anyone have any experience with these shells?
Any and all feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
ANY info available on GAS PORTING the bolt and receiver so as to eliminate the ‘fear factor’ of firing ammo and having powder and gas blowing back in your face…..incase the primer is punctured or faulty ammo, etc……I know the German 98 and other rifles have this feature…… native127@frontiernet.net …..I have 5 Arg. 7.65 Mausers sportered….drill and tapped and bolt handles forged and restocked..
I’m also thinking a After Market Trigger with the Side Safety would be a PLUS for doing a Safety change for scope clearance problems! (Timney Trigger or others)…….awaiting replies….Thanks!
I hadn’t thought of using a commercial trigger assembly and side safety. I don’t have a model 96 around to check the fit but maybe someone else has a Timney or the ilk for a 96 and can try it on the 91. You would of course give up the ‘proper safety’ aspect of the original Mauser safety design. It actually lifts the cocking piece off of the sear and holds the energy of the firing pin spring mechanically. The side safety designs just keep the trigger from moving and the full power of the fiing pin spring is still resting on the cocking piece/sear engagement of only a few thousandths of an inch, if dropped this can slip and cause a discharge. I’ve heard that many African game guides refuse to hunt with a customer whose rifle doesn’t have a ‘proper safety’.
I’ve stumbled across several references over the years of gunsmiths retrofitting the 91 bolt with some of the safety features of later models. If you look at the 95 / 96 bolt it has holes or slots milled into the bottom to direct any pierced primer gasses down into the magazine vs back at the shooters face. Any competent machinist can do this. Just disassemble the bolt and replicate the size and location of holes in the 96 in the bolt body. For ruptured case type failures some Mauser clone designs have a hole drilled in the receiver ring on the right side above the stock. I haven’t studied the likely paths that ruptured case gasses would follow. I know that the rear of the cartridge is not supported for something around a tenth of an inch. This is a thickened area of the cartridge brass so is seldom a problem, but it does happen occasionally. I’ve read that most of the blow-ups of military rifles were due to wrong cartridge (ex: 8mm in a 30-06) or squib load that left a bullet down the barrel and the next shot blew up the rifle. Training issues in other words…operator errors. One of my 91s has a 93 or 95 (I don’t know which) bolt shroud installed. In the 91 original design, you can pretty much look from the rear of the bolt, past the bolt shroud, and see there’s nothing to stop gasses from proceeding past the rear ring down the raceways cut for the lugs and into the shooter’s eyes. The 93/95 shroud has little wings left and right (I think commercial huskvarna’s (sp?) have a similar shroud) that block this path. The military 98 bolt shroud has a flange that further blocks gasses that might come across the top of the bolt, but the commercial FN type bolt shroud does not have this, so someone long ago determined the extra material on the top was not a necessity, just closing off the raceways was good enough. I have never pulled out a micrometer and measured an unmodified 95 shroud, compared it to a 91 shroud. The treads must be the same though as I said, one’s installed on my 91. Could be some part of the bolt or shroud may have been modified to make it fit,or could bit it’s a direct replacement. Changing the shroud, milling the bolt, drilling a hole in the rear ring would give all the gas handling characteristics of a 98 (but not the 3d safety lug).
I have never understood why the gasses from the chamber area would want to travel past the length of the bolt, through the restricted space between rear ring and bolt, and on to the shooter’s face when they could just disperse via the loading/ejection port as soon as they clear the front of the bolt. Maybe someone else can comment on that.
I’m not familiar with the “93” or “95” you talk of…………are they a Argentine….like the Mod. 91???? 7.65 Argentine Caliber??? ……. is the “95/96” also a Argentine Mauser i this caliber??…..Where can a person find a Bueher (spl) Safety for the 1891???? Low Cut For Scope Use! Are they still on the market or have they been discontinued???
Thank You for your info sir….Herm
Herm,
I was referring to the 1893, 1895, and 1896 Mauser designs. These are all small ring Mausers. There are many variations of them around sold to multiple countries in a few original military chamberings. I’m not certain but would say few of them would be in the 7.65 Belgian/Argentine chambering as most countries went with the 7mm Mauser or 6.5X55 (mostly 1896 Swedish on this one). There was some 1898 Mauser production that was originally chambered in 7.65 Argentine. I have one that’s Peruvian…very nice, and some of the coveted 1909 production for Brazil I think was also in the 7.65 chamberig.
I haven’t studied the difference between he 1891 safety and the 1898 safety enough to say that an (currently available through Midway USA and other sources) 1898 safety could be modified to work in an 1891. The Dayton-Traister design and the Buehler design both work well and preserve the ‘proper safety’ aspect of the original Mauser design. They are two position safetys (safety on, safety off). The ‘low’ safety designs swing through a limited amount of arc, and just lift the firing pin off of the sear when engaged. They do not replicate the full three-position aspect of the original design (which requires swinging through nearly 180 degrees of rotation. The Dayton-Traister and Buehler designs I believe have a steeper cam to lift the firing pin than the original Mauser design, and therefore are able to act over a shorter arc of travel. If one were to try and bend 90 degrees the original safety lever or cut and re-weld it into a low scope position it might not have enough cam lift to accomplish the ‘safe’ aspect. Therefore I believe modifying a current production Buehler or Dayton-Traister unit for the 1898 to fit the 1891 might be a better solution.
If you don’t want to do any tedious mods like the above, I suggest you get an account on Ebay and enter a permanent search for something like ‘Buehler safety 1891’. Ebay will email you a notice that someone has listed a vintage original Buehler safety when this happens. I see them a couple of times a year. You gotta know though that there are lots of guys out there competing on the auctions so you may end up paying as much for that safety as you did originally for your rifle.
This is the reason I suggest using the S&K ‘scout scope’ mount and putting an intermediate eye relief scope on the 1891 instead of trying to make a traditional hunting rifle with scope mounted over the receiver. It’s available every day, requires no modifications to the rifle other than removing the rear sight leaf, and works well.
Using the S&K, you don’t need to modify the bolt handle, can keep full functionality of the Mauser Safety, have access to stripper clip reloading guide, and still have the abilty to do precision sighting. You can pick up a pistol scope on Ebay for something like $50 or less. You can get fixed or variable power pistol scopes. A used pistol scope, some ‘Weaver’ style rings, and the S&K mount together will probably run you around $150. It’s true that a traditional scope mount direct to the receiver will cost a bit less, but the scope and rings aren’t going to be any cheaper, so at most it’s a $50 more expensive mount that saves making other more difficult and expensive modifications to the rifle.
The Bueler safetys haven’t been made in close to 50 years, and they were never very popular back when they were in production so you’re looking for a needle in a haystack, vs calling up S&K ordering a mount and moving forward with your project.
XSEXCESS
Estube viendo lo escrito por muchos de Ud. y les contesto en castellano ya que hablan de un Fusil Argentino , la accion mauser 1895-1891-1909 etc. son el año de patentamiento de esta acciones , lo que no significa que hayan sido FABRICADAS en ese año
OK…..I now have “5” – 1891 Argentines. All drilled and tapped and bolts bent for scopes!…….The latest one was a ‘action’ I aquired with No Barrel. I found a barrel on gunbroker.com from a guy……it was ‘butchered’ with bad Pipe Wrench marks on it. (7.65 Argentine).
I got it installed now on the action, but. where the sight use to sit is NOW on the bottom……so I imagine the headspace is Not Good!…..
So my question is to everyone and anyone, WHO has a shop that CAN check headspace?……and a ‘reamer’ for the 7.65 to make this a shootable gun? Where can I contact a shop that WILL do this????
This gun has been drilled and tapped also and the bolt bent and re-blued …….. the last thing I need is to Check the Headspace and to make corrections to make it SAFE!
Please Advise! (all of these rifles I aquired thru time had already been altered from original factory military configeration!) Besides, I Like “Sporters”!
Thank You in advance…….Herm (native127@frontiernet.net)
Useful information. Fortunate me I discovered your web site accidentally, and I am shocked why this twist of fate did not came about earlier! I bookmarked it.
“NOW”….I need a new/different ‘cocking piece’ for the bolt/firing pin. The one I have is too ‘wide’ in the catch (for whatever reason—-maybe for a different model?)…….Did they make different ‘styles’ after 1891? …… The bolt I bought said 1891 Argenine…..and all is well but for this! LIBERTREE may have the part, I need to call them maybe!…….Herm
Does anyone know where i can find an Argentina mauser 10 years ago we were robbed and my dads mauser that was a gift from his father was one of the guns taken and if i can find one or any of y’all can point me in the right direction i would be much obliged
” gunbroker.com ” when it opens in SEARCH..click on ‘rifles’ then enter 1891 Argentine Mauser ….and ENTER……it should take you to these rifles and parts FOR SALE! It’s a ‘auction’ site….but I have bought some for about $100.00 there and they range (I think) up to $400 or so……..You wil probably have to ‘register’ on this site, but it is no big deal. It is SAFE and SECURE and the guns for sale changes weekly or so…..I go there about everyday……Good Luck and MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and your family!…….Herm
I have this rifle in a 30/06 caliber with all matching numbers and crest and writing. The trigger return spring I believe is broken but I’ve not taken it apart as I am not a gun smith. But I may be interested in selling or trading it for a functional deer rifle. I’m in Florida and can be reached by email Kagen.km@gmail.com
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Hi, I have a mauser but the wooden piece in front of the scope came off. The wires that hold the piece corroded through. From your pictures, it looks like you don’t have any wires holding the piece on either. Did you glue it? Anyone else have any suggestions on how to fix it? Also, does anyone know of a resource that describes the sights? i.e. what is the battle sight set for? Thank you in advance!
A Front Barrel Band usually holds the top hand guard in place. On most ‘sporterized’ rifles these hand guards were done away with on the military style original stocks. and….the Military Sights are usually (I think) graduates from close in and Out To 1,000 yards (or so)….. I have 5 that I sporterized……bent the bolt handle for scope clearance and drill & tapped for scope bases and NEW sporter stocks.
Chris, I just finished restoring my 1891 Argie. Run solid copper wire (not braided) through the grooves in the handguard. The wire is twisted snuggly under the barrel. The wire “tails” are tucked into the bottom of the stock. If you are lucky the grooves in the upper handguard will line up with the grooves cut into the bed of the stock to hide the wire. My replacement handguard grooves did not line up. I used an exacto knife to cut new grooves into the stock bed to allow the wire to disappear into the bed portion of the stock. Done correctly, the wire is only visable from the top and side of the upper handguard. I have read that twisted wire was the method used to attach the upper handguard to the barrel.
Thanks Paul! I’ll see if I can find the wire somewhere locally.
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Love this rifle. I received the engineer carbine as a gift in my teens. Has been my hunting rifle ever since, (despite owning other pieces). Hits hard, is accurate, smooth action, and very easy to maintain. Cannot ask for more than that :) *well one can ask for reloadin dies, those are worth it too!
Hh
I have a 1891 Loewe Berlin bolt action rifle my dad gave me, on barrel it’s stamped 3082x then GEW 88 has two crest moons one on knob of bolt action three crest moons on lever. Can anyone tell me the value of this rifle?
“” gunbroker.com “” , you go to RIFLES and Then type in “1891 Argentine Mauser” in their SEARCH ….. and some rifles and asking prices should show up ….. lot of pictures there also in the auction descriptions to compare yours too also ….. GOOD LUCK
I myself am looking for GO & NO-GO & Field Gauge also if possible for the 1891 Argentine 7.65 …… either to buy ….or to borrow if not wanting to sell …..?????????
Also, someone to drill in Gas Ports in the receivers of my 5 – 1891 Argentines, just to make then a little safer in my mind ….. gas Blow Back scares me ….. I’ve had it happen in the past on a previous rifle I owned ……
Answer me on e-mail …. native127@frontiernet.net …. or on Face Book under my name HERMAN KOVAR ….
Thank You!
I own one as well. Shoots MOA with Sierras.
Cast bullets shoot splendidly as well.
I put Millets sights on it. Superb rifle.
Enjoy it immensely. Hope you do as well.
tw